Well Matched: A suitable man

South African-born Murray Coetzee is head designer at top suit-making company Suitssupply

What are the suit rules?

• It must fit properly. If a suit is too big, with droopy shoulders and trousers too long, it looks like something from your father's cupboard. If it's too tight it looks like a remnant of younger, leaner days.
• Never close the bottom button of the jacket.
• The shoulder line should complement your frame and not exaggerate it.
• The jacket should always have vents in the back and never have less than a two- button or more than a three-button closure.

What are the rules with colours?

The rules with colours are basic - wear colours that suit your complexion and in which you feel comfortable. Start with blue and grey and add complementary colours with accessories. Black is the only colour to be wary of. It's often heavy and should stay within the domain of the service industries - waiters and funeral directors. Charcoal is a better option.

Which city is the most stylish?

Tokyo. Japanese men dress exceptionally well and the entire culture and city oozes style - from the architecture to the way food is presented.

What patterns work best for your average joe?

All patterns, as long as they are not over-stated or too loud.

How important is a tailor?

If you can afford the luxury of a made-to-measure suit, that's great, but it's more important to have a shop you trust with an in-store tailor who can tailor off-the-peg articles to perfection.

English tailoring or Italian tailoring?

English tailoring is looser fitting and made to grow into. Italian tailoring is for the shape you're currently in.

Should socks match your suit?

Definitely not. You can get away with wearing bolder fun colours. Stay clear of Mickey Mouse patterns. Go for the longer option. Your calf should never show when you cross your legs.

Should you cuff your pants?

A cuff is nice on well-fitting trousers, but when using cuffs the trousers should not be too long.

How much sleeve cuff should show?

The shirt's cuff should extend from 1cm to 1.5cm under the jacket cuff, but the sleeve of your jacket should never be too long. The shirt cuff should end at the edge between your wrist and hand.

Which fabrics are off limits?

Never wear shiny synthetic fibres with fancy Jacquard patterns.

Who is your style icon?

Cary Grant. He dressed with a masculine ease that is unrivalled.

Style tip?

Men should never over-groom or over-style - stay masculine.

Favourite suit style?

The Havana fit. It's an easy suit to wear and fits most body types. It has good details such as patch pockets and a softer shoulder.

Current suit trends?

Shorter jackets with softer shoulders and tapered trousers. Double-breasted jackets but make sure they're not oversized.

To waistcoat or not to waistcoat?

Definitely to waistcoat. A man always looks good in a well- tailored three-piece suit.

Matching when suiting up?

Rather go for complementary than matching. The tie should never match the pocket square - they complement each other.

At what point does a suit become garish?

If you don't wear it with confidence. Stay away from shiny, synthetic-looking fabrics. It depends on the occasion. A tartan suit can be great, but not for the office.

Dress Sense

Dutch CEO Fokke de Jong founded Suitsupply in 2000. ''In a world where off-the-rack suits have invaded the closets, my company aims to introduce a better option: suiting that fits."

Fokke and his team are in Johannesburg to launch Suitsupply, which opens today at 64 First Road, Hyde Park. www.suitsupply.com