The Old Vine story has been gathering momentum for some time. Until recently old vineyards were merely survivors, kept in the ground by growers who couldn’t afford new plantings. There was no recognition that, properly managed and under the right circumstances, they could become the purest expression of place. Survivors with epigenetic “memory” of hard times and years of plenty, they are integrated into their landscape. Conceivably they express not only the conditions of a particular vintage, but of all the growing seasons that have come before...