A delicious dalliance at two of the Eastern Cape’s luxe gems

My love affair with the Eastern Cape began when my father first took us as children to his place of provenance. His many tales of grass-carpeted hills dramatically tumbling into the ocean leapt to life when we first laid eyes on the Wild Coast. Ever since I’ve made an annual pilgrimage to some part of the province. Sadly many travellers bypass it when considering their South African staycations, so on my latest visit, I took the time to profile two choice properties that seemed to have calmly hit the nail on the head of luxury nature escapes.

Prana Lodge

Within minutes of arriving at Prana Lodge, I experienced the same sensation I’d felt the first time I visited here — that of being completely transported to a magical forest. And if the terms “enchanting” and “fairytale” conjure up images of tie-dye touting hippies and rustic cabins, let’s set the record straight. 

Prana Lodge is a five-star wellness retreat ensconced in acres of lush vegetation, with an almost Balinese feel of slate roofs and understated elegance. Each day I easily managed my 5,000 steps, though hardly noticing, as I meandered along the walkways through the forest, constantly entertained by birds, monkeys and occasional glimpses of the elusive blue duikers.

For those seeking the sanctuary of a more remote location, but without having to travel far (or venturing onto some of the Wild Coast’s ill-reputed dirt roads), Prana Lodge is in the coastal hamlet of Chintsa, barely 45 minutes from East London. The area is considered to be the accessible end of the Wild Coast, and if you are accustomed to luxury, Prana is the only five-star property for the next 600km of coastline.

The suites are dotted throughout the dune forest with enough privacy to shield you from any line of sight. Each unit features a lounge, courtyard and private splash pool — essentially a small villa rather than the traditional hotel room, adding to the lodge’s exclusivity factor.

The crowning glory is the glittering Diamond Suite, which floats on the top of the dunes at canopy level. From the veranda, you can enjoy all the action in both bush and beach below: two red-billed hornbills visited daily seemingly curious about us, twice the mercurial monkeys ventured near hoping for an open door and the chance to steal fruit, and in the mornings I’d watch a red-breasted shrike delicately build her spring nest while sipping my coffee.

By night the frogs take over from the daytime birdsong with a gentle evening chorus, complemented by the crashing of the waves. This wild soundtrack was calming enough that we slept with windows and curtains open, eventually rising to the first rays of the day beckoning us to enjoy an invigorating sunrise swim (the ocean is a short stroll away along the wooden walkways).

Back at the lodge, the central dining spaces, bar and lounges are all glass, with little separation from the natural forest. The staff also happily arrange meal set-ups on the decks, including the dune deck where you can enjoy any of your three daily meals. 

With no predators, we could safely explore on foot — whether it be hiking, trail running or cycling. Spring is a particularly dreamy time to visit — in between the thicket, the open ground was painted in an abundance of botanical pleasures. Most people associate fynbos with the areas surrounding Cape Town, but a sliver of the Unesco-recognised flowering kingdom does stretch as far east as here.

On one of the daily nature drives we were to have a picnic lunch, and I presumed we’d be dining in one of these floral belts. Climbing over the ridge I quickly realised I was wrong. Stopping on a cliff edge stood a wooden deck adorned with a pagoda, floating over kilometres of uninterrupted views. Here a table was laden with lunch, and two benches draped in blankets. I dubbed the spot “proposal deck”, thinking it to be one of the finest spaces in the Eastern Cape for such a romantic encounter. 

And talking of romance, the hotel’s spa also ticks every wellness box. Once the pampering was done, we dined at sunset beside the boma fire, and as if on cue to match the dramatic sunset, I heard the far-off roar of a lone lion (thankfully behind the fence of a distant property).

Visit www.intle.co.za

Wanted