Is it an upmarket bar with great food? A casually elegant restaurant with a sultry soundtrack and knockout wine list? Richard Holmes isn't quite sure where to place Tjing Tjing Torii, but agrees that it's not hard to see why social media is abuzz with chatter about this sexy new space in the heart of Cape Town's CBD Sandwiched between the ground floor Dear Me bistro and the popular Tjing Tjing rooftop bar, the middle level of 165 Longmarket Street has been through a number of reincarnations. At first it was a space for private events and corporate lunches; then, with Vanessa Marx in the kitchen, it became The White Room where the focus was on fine dining with a touch of experimentation. All eyes on the plate, please.Now, as the opulent Japanese-inspired Tjing Tjing Torii, it seems to have found its niche. The walls have been daubed in deep blue and studded with Asian-chic artwork. Velvet bar stools and sleek leather couches sit alongside ghost chairs and brushed metal tables. The skilled barman, eagle-eyed for empty glasses, smiles from his leather-padded eyrie. Less formal and far more welcoming, it's an opulent space where the décor is as eye-catching as the food.mini_story_image_hleft1And the food is really why you should visit. You'll find the same menu as in the bar upstairs, but here there's the space to appreciate what chef Christi Semczyszyn conjures up. Small plates of Asian cuisine, priced between R35 and R75, rule the day, with more than a dozen options ranging from the predictable to the playful.Start with oysters, raw or tempura, or an edamame salad, and do try the quirky crispy cubes of deep-fried sushi rice served with hot soy. Tuna tataki is expertly done: lightly seared and served with ponzu sauce and a dusting of sesame seeds. Sticky pork belly wrapped in a soft bao and topped with pickled cucumber is a dish you'll remember.story_article_right1Another standout is the agedashi tofu; cubes of bean curd fried just enough to hold their shape and served in a dashi broth bursting with umami. Five or six dishes are fine for a couple, while larger groups should simply try one of each. Take a moment to admire the plates before you tuck in: Semczyszyn uses wood and ceramic to great effect, adding a touch of class to what could easily be street-style snacks.On the wine list, more than a dozen options are available by the glass, with an impressive choice of niche producers and unusual varieties, all at extremely fair prices. Choices by the bottle are even more varied, with French and German labels alongside some of the best local boutique estates.In Japan the torii is the gate at a Shinto shrine, dividing the human world from the spirit realm. If Dear Me excels at keeping earthbound office workers well-fed in the daytime, and the spirits of the night party it up on the roof, then this sexy new space is a gateway between two worlds. And, I'd bet, one where you'll want to linger.Visit: 165 Longmarket Street, Cape Town. Call 021-422-4920. ..