Reader's adventure: In Mama Africa

Trish Gordon James explores the dilapidated splendour of Eritrea's Italian-influenced capital

Flying into Eritrea from Dubai in the early hours of the morning, I could not wait for dawn to savour my new surroundings in the city of Asmara, set high on a plateau at 2325m above sea level and 110km from the Red Sea in the Horn of Africa. The country is bordered by Ethiopia, Sudan and Djibouti.

I stayed at the Albergo Italia, one of the oldest hotels in Africa, in the city's historic centre which has buildings dating back to the 18th century. A cacophony woke me - the cock crowing, the muezzin calling followers to prayer, the Catholic cathedral bells ringing and the broadcast of prayers from the Orthodox cathedral. I threw open the shutters and saw the dusty rooftops of Asmara, planted with washing lines and satellite dishes, against a backdrop of cathedral towers, church steeples and the minarets of the mosques.

Eritrea, like it's neighbour Ethiopia, was colonised by the Italians at the end of the 19th century and this is evident in some of its architecture, though many of the buildings are dilapidated. Wandering around, I was amazed at the diversity of architectural styles. Asmara is also known as one of the Art-Deco cities of the world, along with Chicago in the US and Napier in New Zealand.

Unfortunately, the 30-year war with Ethiopia and its long-term effect on the economy means buildings have fallen into disrepair. The Opera House is probably the most elegant and eclectic. It has a Renaissance scallop-shell fountain, a Romanesque portico supported by classical columns and inside, above multi-tiered balconies, a spectacular Art-Nouveau ceiling. The beauty of the building is still evident but it looks tired and run down. Likewise, the cinemas, of which there are many, are reminiscent of Art-Deco palaces.

Walking along the cracked and broken pavements of the city, I felt very relaxed and safe. The Eritrean people are charming and friendly even if they do not understand English. I had no problem tramping the streets, taking in the atmosphere and discovering the nooks and crannies that make up this city.

Little dark doorways often revealed small and pokey stores with welcoming proprietors but I was not tempted to "punish plastic" - credit cards are not accepted tender in Eritrea but there is also an obvious shortage of luxury goods and even suitable souvenirs. This is no doubt due to the limited access and availability of foreign currency.

Strolling through the peaceful neighbourhoods, I saw many stunning Italian villas, mainly occupied by embassies, alongside those that have seen better days. There are some beautiful gardens with bright plants and creepers, similar to those in South Africa, especially the vibrant shades of the bougainvillea.

Eating in Asmara is a bit of a hit-and-miss affair. Cafés and restaurants are predominantly Italian but while pasta and pizza are plentiful, the ingredients to go with them are not reliable. There is often a shortage of meat. Prawns from the Red Sea, when available, are delicious, as is the fish. However, eating stir-fry pork in a Chinese restaurant, I was a little perplexed to discover a small bone. Chicken does not appear on any menus but goat is a staple food source.

In spring, Asmara is abuzz with the Diaspora, when Eritreans who live abroad come home for several weeks each year. The many pavement cafés and bars are full with folk chatting, laughing, relaxing and enjoying their macchiato (the most popular coffee drink) with a tantalising pastry or sipping on a locally brewed beer. The passeggiata (evening stroll) along the main avenue brings all and sundry onto the street for greetings and gossip. This is quite extraordinary as it is obviously a throw over from the Italian days and shows how safe people feel on the streets, even at night.

Asmara is not your typical hectic African city. The streets are not overcrowded and the traffic is orderly. Drivers obey the rules of the road. There is no visible police presence. Motor vehicles all have to a pass a roadworthy test each year and bicycles also need to be licensed. There is a large fleet of yellow taxis that are always available and affordable. The sight of a man loading his goat into the boot of a cab in the main street one afternoon was most unexpected.

There does seem to be calmness about life in Eritrea. However, one can be deceived by appearances.

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