The Big Read: There but for the grace of...

18 January 2016 - 02:09 By Darrel Bristow-Bovey

Three months ago my wife and I caught a tram from our apartment in Cukurcuma in Istanbul across the Galata bridge to the old city of Sultanahmet. I don't really like Sultanahmet - it's the tatty, bleary, jangling tourist centre, where touts in cargo shorts wave pamphlets and shout in German to try to sell trays of sticky Turkish Delight or lure you into bad restaurants for overpriced doners, but we had spent time there in a cold winter not long after we'd met, with the black rain lashing in from...

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