A river runs through fynbos

The Cape's winter rains make for a thrilling, chilly rafting day on the Doring, writes Claire Keeton

Staring at the turbulence, I said to my friend: "Let's do the chicken run." Yes, a chicken run is how it sounds: a cowardly line to avoid the worst holes and rocks.

The Doring's power depends on winter rain. On our trip, it kept rising as the Cape of Storms lived up to its name, until the river flooded its banks downstream.

The first drizzly day, we ran the rapids in two-person inflatable rafts. By Sunday, under clear skies, the water was high enough to launch a six-person raft, usually reserved for big rivers, such as the Zambezi.

Of the many whitewater rivers in Southern Africa, the Doring in the Western Cape and the upper Blyde in Mpumalanga are the most beautiful I've rafted.

Going 26km down the Doring at that level would have been risky for us without expert paddler and former river guide Trevor Ball who knows where to find the potentially dangerous rapids. That is why we were scouting Krans rapid on foot before running it. Krans has a boiling pot and a rock formation that is shaped like a tooth jutting sideways, right before a drop into another churning hole and waves.

The water was freezing and my steering was rusty so I opted for the easier line with my old friend, psychiatrist Neil Horn - at least, that was the plan.

Trevor felt confident about steering the teenagers in our group down the chicken run and he went first, doing two smooth runs with three of the four children. The other chose to walk.

Trevor's adventure-racer wife Alison and physiotherapist Cheryl Moolman came next. Cheryl half tipped out in the first hole and they capsized in the second but got flushed through the churning foam.

Then Neil and I set out, pulling hard left to avoid the intimidating holes. We didn't make it. Drenched and bucking in the waves, I focused on keeping the raft straight while he paddled flat out.

Though we didn't end up swimming and were wearing wetsuits with gloves and booties, we were shivering at the end.

Rafting the Doring will always be chilly since it is a winter river, yet it is one of the best whitewater trips in the country.

The rapids are an easy-to-fair size (grades two to three) and swell with rain; the water is pure enough to drink; and the scenery in the northern Cederberg is gorgeous.

The river runs through fynbos and bright flowers, past waterfalls, burnt orange cliffs and hundreds of caves with rock art.

The commercial river-rafting trip by Bundi does the 26km route - which we did in one day - over two days. Participants sleep in a huge cave with a shelf above the river.

We were content to be sleeping indoors - especially as the off-the-grid Oudrif Straw Cottages where we stayed are idyllic - when we set out in intermittent rain.

We launched at Oudrif and soon hit the first big rapid, House. We all made it without swimming, though Neil and I went down it backwards.

The water level resulted in an exhilarating trip, with far more rapids than flatwater and plenty of unthreatening waves. After Krans, a third big rapid called Island also required tight steering.

All day, we paddled or drifted with the swift current, stopping only for tea and lunch. The spectacular environment enhanced every moment of a perfect day.

As we curved around the last bend, Bill Mitchell, the dreamer behind Oudrif, was waiting to fetch us with warm clothes and cold beers.

By Sunday morning, the water had risen even more and Trevor, an adventurer who started Abseil Africa, got us out on the big raft owned by Bill, a former river guide and chef.

We did a short hop through House and the hurtling waves below it before reluctantly getting back our land legs and returning to Cape Town.

The Doring rafting season usually runs until spring although it ended early this year. This is the best time, however, to see the Namaqualand daisies. The hiking, swimming and fishing last all year and the summers are very hot.

In addition to its dazzling flora, Oudrif is a remote destination with diverse fauna - buck, otter, aardvaark and leopard have all been spotted on the doorstep, literally. The only sounds are birds, baboons and the river.

Bill and Jeanine are an artistic couple who have created a 100% green, stylish retreat. He built the five straw-bale cottages with sloping walls and salvaged doors and she cooks outstanding organic meals with home-baked bread and cakes.

The river views from each cottage and the details - great books in the corners; recycled retro, comfortable furniture; beaded cords hanging from solar-powered lights; gas heaters; fans; and luxury bedding - make it special.

After three years of travel, Oudrif is one of my favourite places in the country.

Samuel Taylor Coleridge captures a sense of the Cederberg's magic in these lines:

And mid these dancing rocks at once and ever

It flung up momently the sacred river

Five miles meandering with a mazy motion

Through wood and dale the sacred river ran

Then reached the caverns measureless to man .

For he on honey-dew hath fed

And drunk the milk of Paradise