Weekend Escape: The road to Vhutuwangadzebu

Bridget Hilton-Barber follows a path into soul country, where even the names are like poems

YOU are likely to encounter some soul searching questions when travelling deep in Vhembe, Limpopo, the land of legend. For instance, should you take the road to Vhutuwangadzebu or the road to Vhutuwangadzebu? Both left and right led to the same place it seemed. "Do you think all roads out here lead to Vhutuwangadzebu?" I asked my travel mate. His attentions were focused on the enormous surreal baobab ahead of us. "When you see a fork in the road," he replied wisely, "take it."

So being of the Robert Frost school of roads less travelled, we decided to turn right to Vhutuwangadzebu. As the poet himself would have said, that made all the difference. The road led us on a slow, sexy drive into the cool green heights of upper, upper Tshixwadza, past hillside villages that cling to the mountainsides, where the schoolchildren waved and the cow bells tinkled. It led us into soul country: remote, rural Venda, where the names are like poems too: Mufungudi, Mutshindudi, Phananani, Phiphidi, Fondwe, Fundudzi, Tshamanthatshe.

We had spent the night before at the charming Madi a Thavha mountain lodge, in the foothills of the Soutpansberg, near Louis Trichardt. Madi a Thavha is a guesthouse and gallery dedicated to promoting traditional Tsonga and Venda arts and crafts. Having given us a night of warm hospitality and a tour of their gallery, called The Singing Fish, they gave us a long, decadent breakfast and a map of the Artists' Route, a self-drive journey which takes you to the studios and workshops of various local potters, sculptors, weavers and fabric makers.

We ended up knee-deep in amazement in the heart of the bright-green tea estates of Mukumbani. We visited the sacred waterfall of Phiphidi, in the Thathe Vondo forest, home to ancestral Venda royalty and spirits. We visited Mashamba village, where the women make traditional Venda pots. We visited rural galleries selling sculptures and baskets, beadwork and sticks. We stopped to pat baobabs, we bought Zamaleks from the Speakeasy Bar ("Don't change your lifestyle," said the billboard outside, "Change your relaxing style!") and we drove on and up into the land where the pythons still dance and drums still beat under the water in the pools at Mashovhela.

Yes people, the road to Vhutuwangadzebu took us far, far away from this wearisome global village. And knowing how way leads onto way, I doubted if we should ever come back.

WHERE IT IS: Madi a Thavha is in the Soutpansberg mountains Vhembe district, Limpopo. 10km from Louis Trichardt on the R522 to Vivo.

WHY GO THERE: Dramatic mountain scenery, laid-back vibe, great hiking, birding and botanising; most especially the chance to explore the local Venda and Tsonga arts and crafts route.

WHAT IT HAS: Six pleasant rooms with private verandahs, a spacious lounge and dining room, swimming pool; and craft shop and gallery.

WHAT IT'S LIKE: Calm, friendly, inspiring.

AND THE FOOD: Good and wholesome, using fresh, seasonal ingredients. There's a spacious and modern open-plan kitchen, where chefs cook in open view of guests.

RATES: From R425 per person sharing self-catering to R765 per person sharing for dinner, bed and breakfast.

GETTING THERE: From Jo'burg, take the N1 to Louis Trichardt. From Louis Trichardt take the R522 to Vivo, continue for about 10km and turn right at the sign to Madi a Thavha mountain lodge.

WHAT THERE IS TO SEE ON THE WAY: A giant rock with graffiti, which marks the Tropic of Capricorn north of Polokwane; the Schoemansdal Museum outside Louis Trichardt, with exhibits on the San and early African chiefdoms, as well as the Voortrekkers.

CONTACT: e-mail info@madiathavha.com; call 083 342 4162 or 072 170 2830; visit www.madiathavha.com

© Bridget Hilton-Barber