It's a quick, affordable hop to beachy bliss at new Emerald Resort, Zanzibar

A sighting of dolphins from a boat on a turquoise sea epitomises the wonder that Zanzibar evokes. Snorkelling in the waters off this Indian Ocean island is also a rare delight — it's teeming with life and the water clarity is exceptional.

Swimming close to our hotel, the new Emerald Zanzibar Resort & Spa in the northeast, and on a day excursion exploring the protected waters around the island with tour operator Safari Blue ($80, about R1,300), we admired swathes of coral “fields” and brightly coloured reef fish; joked about the optics created by sea cucumbers; and goggled at sea snakes weaving in the depths near the ocean floor.

The Safari Blue tour included a swim in a lagoon shaded by mangroves, the salt content so high you bob around like a float if you stop swimming. We also docked at a sandbar for lunch and a browse at a little market. In the shallows, the starfish here are as big as your palm.

As I was leaving Joburg, my sceptical partner had cautioned “don't drown”. But the onshore divemasters give even the weakest swimmers the opportunity to marvel at life under the water and snorkelling equipment is provided. Due to my inexperience, I was helped with buoyancy aids and guided on how to bite down on the snorkel (no inhaling of saltwater!) and avoid mask fogging.

On land, a smile could play on your face without your even realising it as your toes sift through the soft, fine sand and your mind idly calculates the variations of blue heading to the horizon. The humidity is so intense, though, it will soon drive you back into the water, whether the sea or one of the several swimming pools at the resort.

FOOD IN A FINE SETTING

At the five-star resort, which opened in December, the rim pool overlooking the ocean quickly became a place to chat with fellow travellers while the garden pool area provided shade and an in-water bar. 

Guests stay on an all-inclusive basis, which is perfect since there is a great range of drinks, including a South African MCC sparkling wine, and delicious food on offer at the various restaurants — catering for seafood lovers (big thumbs up), carnivores, fans of Asian-styled cuisine and even gelato at a quaint ice-cream “shop”.

I gravitated to the Beach Club Grill restaurant, where diners sit shielded from the sun with their toes in the sand. I scarfed down jumbo prawns, red snapper, fresh soups and pizzas replete with juicy toppings.

The Aqua is the hotel's breakfast spot, which also provides lovely buffet-style meals for lunch and supper. Here, the seating is divided by intricate, Arabic inspired wooden screens, which lend a sense of intimacy and, with fans overhead, help to cool the air.  I enjoyed its wide variety of cuisines.

The staff are always ready with a friendly jambo (“hello” in  Swahili). 

TIME TO EXPLORE 

Getting around the island is easy with tour operators running shuttles from the hotels. When we went exploring, we rode with Dege Aventures, which offered guides, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning and cool drinks as we travelled west to historic Stone Town for an all-day excursion on a dhow and a tour of a spice farm.

Expect to spend at least 90 minutes on the spice tour, a great taste and scent sensation. An informative walk takes you through plantations of nutmeg, cinnamon (the fresh bark is so fragrant), pepper (don't taste unless you have a cast-iron tongue) and cloves, which are a valuable export crop. There's also a lively demonstration of how to scale a coconut tree. Perfumes bottled on the farm (the coffee bean fragrance is a lovely surprise) and packets of spices make affordable and unusual souvenirs.  

We enjoyed wandering the winding, narrow walkways of Stone Town, past people's homes and tiny shops with carved Arabic doors. The Anglican cathedral was a poignant stop. It was built on the site where the Oman sultanate once held slave auctions, and commemorates the horrors committed there. Outside is a haunting monument showing slaves in a pit, shackled together by chains around their necks.

BACK AT THE HOTEL 

After a long day exploring, it's a pleasure to return to the luxury resort with its king-size beds, bathrobes to snuggle in, nightly turndown service and free Wi-Fi.

Parents will surely enjoy that children have their own pool area sporting water jets, a climbing wall and other playground spoils. Activities are lined up to keep the little ones busy during the day, with evening events with dancers and musicians for the adults (no extra charge). 

As vast as it is, the resort is an adventure fit for couples, groups of friends and families. Zanzibar itself — affordable, easy to get to, and unforgettably beautiful — is a no-brainer for South Africans. Relaxation is guaranteed.

• Saunders was a guest of tour operator AfricaStay and the Emerald Zanzibar Resort & Spa.

GETAWAY AT A GLANCE

Getting there: FlySafair flies direct between Johannesburg's OR Tambo and Zanzibar's international airport in 3.5 hours. The resort is a 70-minute drive from the airport.

Need to know:

• As of this month, Tanzania has dropped all Covid-19 entry requirements. No vaccinations or PCR tests are required, though arrivals will be subject to thermal and physical screening and port authorities may randomly conduct rapid antigen tests at no charge. 
• SA passport holders do not need a visa.
• There is a ban on plastic bags entering Zanzibar, so don't pack any (this also applies to ziplock bags). 

The resort: The Emerald Zanzibar Resort & Spa is a five-star, “deluxe all-inclusive” resort located in Muyuni Matemwe in the northeast. Sprawled across 10ha of beachfront land on a lagoon, it has 250 suites ranging from “Garden Junior” to the “Presidential Ocean Suite”. Sports facilities include two tennis courts, a padel court, gym. There is also a diving and watersports centre, a kids' club and a spa. 

A FINE BALANCE