Food Review: Come home to roost

06 April 2016 - 02:13 By Siphiliselwe Makhanya

Two weeks ago it was Dibas Dust in Kwamashu. The second leg of the Durban chicken route takes us to the four-month-old suburban home of Durban North grilled chicken, The Coop.The small eatery has been accused of being the pretender to the similarly conceived and older Afro's Chicken Shop throne.Like Afro's, The Coop has built its menu around chicken and gone for the trendy bare-bricks and wood restaurant aesthetic. Also like Afro's, they serve tasty, affordable food. It's served overlooking the Durban North traffic instead of the sea, but still.In keeping with its textbook hipsteraims, all of its sauces are house-made - peri-peri, lemon and herb, smoky barbecue. The menu was developed, manager Nolan Moodley tells me proudly, by a local food professional.We order from the capsule menu selection - a peri-peri chicken burger, lemon and herb chicken strips, barbecue wrap. The sides are chips, slaw and buttered corn. Listed is also a "coop salad", which we decide against. The chicken in each item is tender, evenly flavoured. The burger buns are fresh, the peri-peri a shade hotter than what most people would expect - Durban hot. I ask if there's bird's eye chilli in there. No, just serrano, comes the response.The tangy chicken strips are coated in a moist crumb. It is not unpleasant. For the heat of the day on which we have chosen to stop by, the wrap is the best candidate - avo, carrot strips and the chicken in a flatbread. It is light but filling. The best of the lot. The slaw is average. The chips are nice enough. The sweetcorn is a warm, buttery, deadly sin. I am unsurprised to hear it's a hit.Need to knowWhen to go: 11am to 9pmWho to take: Your children for an after-school meal treat on days when you're not sure what to feed them. The restaurant also does takeaway pick-up orders if you call ahead and make arrangements.What not to do: Confuse the restaurant next door's host stand for The Coop's like I did. They're that close to each other.What to drink: Iced tea or any of the four coffee options from their java menu.How much do you need: R35 to R50 for mains, R20 to R30 for sides and R13 to R25 for drinks.Address: 15 Mackeurtan Ave, Durban North, 4051, 031-563-2454..

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