Adventure Travel: Destination Desolation

Marianne Schwankhart soaked up the silence in the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

. RICHTERSVELD

The Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, straddling the border between South Africa and Namibia, is a vast mountain desert with the most exquisite plant life - and silence.

Here, you're on your own. No cellphone signal, no electricity, no running water.

There is one last petrol stop at the entrance to the park, where you have to sign an indemnity form.

. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

The distance along the N14 between Johannesburg and Sendelingsdrift, the entrance to the park, is 1 595km and it's a long, straight road. Past Upington, it gets briefly colourful with Northern Cape vineyards next to the Orange River and towards the Augrabies Falls. We stopped in Kakamas to spend the night and walk around the falls in almost unbearable heat. A better plan would have been to stop for longer and paddle down the Orange through the deep canyons, then relax on the banks of the river.

We carried on to Port Nolloth, with its half-deserted yet functioning seaport, where we stopped for the night in. The locals live a simple, embedded life with dreams of one day encountering the bigger world out there.

It is also the last place to pick up any forgotten supplies at the well-stocked supermarket.

The road north leads to the forsaken town of Alexander Bay, a result of the 1925 diamond rush. It is no longer a high-security area and it's worth driving around just to appease your sense of curiosity and mystery.

The last 90km stretch up to Sendelingsdrift is on good dirt road, passing some of the old mining sites.

. THE AI-AIS/RICHTERSVELD TRANSFRONTIER PARK

The driving in the park is slow but never too technical, provided you have some clearance. We headed for De Hoop campsite via Akkedis Pass, where driving required focus but was not beyond comfort.

My only regret is that we didn't take more time along this stretch. This part of the park has a richness of flora that compels you to stop and observe.

De Hoop campsite is the most popular as it's well placed on the banks of the Orange River with beaches and big shady trees. There are no crocodiles in the Orange so when it gets really hot, the most pleasant place is a comfortable seat in the river.

Even though De Hoop has ample water to cool you down, my favourite campsite was Kokerboomkloof. The approach on top of the mountain resembles more a Kokerboom graveyard than a kloof. These hardy trees, which thrive in sand and little water, are dying in some places yet flourishing in others. Scientists haven't been able to explain this behaviour although assumptions lean towards climate change. The campsite, however, has heaps of healthy trees among the big rock formations - a setting that is perfect to photograph in the right light. We had the place to ourselves and the silence and space are engraved on my memory.

There are eight campsites in the park with bush toilets and some have cold showers. But you need to take all your own drinking water - and take more than you think you need.

We left the park after four nights and took the Helskloof Pass, which has high viewpoints over the ever-changing landscapes. Just 22km from the exit back to Sendelingsdrift you will reach the pontoon that takes you across to Namibia. We spent our last night near the rim of the Fish River Canyon. The immensity of the canyon, the world's second-largest after the Grand Canyon, made me wonder about how, when I was eight, my parents took me on a four-day hike down and along the canyon. The only vivid memories I have of that time are camping with scorpions and waking up one morning (we slept under the stars) with leopard spoor around our campsite.

. TIPS

The cooler winter months are a better time to go. Although we went in mid-October, when it was hot during the day, we still had our jackets on at night.

There are a few items that made this remote destination more heavenly, like my hammock, solar shower, car fridge, a set of petanque (the boules game), cotton sheets, down pillows and a few good books.

Visit www.sanparks.co.za for details and information on planning a trip.

. PLACES ALONG THE WAY

Vergelegen guesthouse is a popular and easy stopover next to the main road just before you reach Kakamas. Their restaurant, with wines from the area, makes a perfect dinner after a long journey, and also offers a large breakfast buffet. Rates are R410 per person sharing.

E-mail vergelegen@electronet.co.za or phone 0544310976.

Bedrock Lodge in Port Nolloth is one of the original houses right on the seafront, with a farm-style look. We had a very comfortable night in the Grace Room followed by a home-cooked breakfast.

R600 for double room, phone 0278518865 or visit www.bedrocklodge.co.za.

Canyon Lodge is just 20km from the main viewpoint over the Fish River Canyon. Rates are R1022 per person but they also have a cheaper self-catering option. Visit www.canonlodge.com.

We stopped at the Canyon Road House, 25km from the Fish River Canyon, for a cappuccino. The bar is in a warehouse filled with antique motor-workshop equipment and decorated with old posters and trinkets. They also have food on the menu and offer good accommodation - and a pool. Phone +264061259372 or +2640818865788.

If you love quiver trees, make a detour to Keimoes to the Koms Quiver Tree Nursery, which has a large variety. They will supply you with a permit and deliver to your home. Contact Marina Bothma on 0544640195 or 0723749432.