The age of the dandy is back

Today's men aren't afraid to bring their masculinity into question with their fashion choices

30 July 2017 - 00:02 By Rea Khoabane

After his Spring/Summer 2014 show, British designer Jonathan Anderson said: "There's no real relevance in gender. When girls and boys dress the same. It's ... like this new understanding of the feminine and masculine within every human."
South African designers are also blurring the gender lines. Nao Serati's creations are futuristic and feminine. Kim Gush showed male models in skirts and pink metallic jumpsuits. Orapeleng Modutle dressed them in chiffon.
Modutle says this trend takes us back to the 16th century when fashionable men wore earrings, usually in one ear, with wide padded breeches that resembled skirts.
"Whatever femininity this might have indicated was counterbalanced with hyper-masculine pointy beards," says Modutle.
Professor Hlonipha Mokoena of the Wits Institute for Social and Economic Research says we should interrogate why the word feminine has become less derogatory when applied to men's clothing.She says this is the "return of the dandy", a creation of the fashion industry and a marker of changing social norms. As societies have changed and become more accepting of the spectrum of sexualities and sexual expressions, the idea of cross-dressing for men and women has been normalised.
Mokoena says this has been accompanied by a growing acceptance of androgyny.
While women feel powerful and free when they wear suits, men are less afraid of bringing their masculinity into question, says trend analyst Nicola Cooper.
"Women are outranking men in the classroom and the office, encouraging men to redefine their ways of operating in order to compete. Men are reinventing themselves, borrowing traits from feminine traditions, but stamping their own mark on careers, parenting and running households."
Cooper says men's fashion is going through a "gender-bending" moment not seen since the 1970s when the young Mick Jagger and David Bowie toyed with feminine looks.
"Men are not afraid of bringing their masculinity into question. Younger generations do not have a fixed social stereotype," she says.
Some of the looks strongly associated with women used to be male items of dress.
When heels made their debut in the 17th century, they were worn by men. This lasted for more than a century as an expression of power and prestige.
"There is no clear-cut point at which heels became feminine, so it is logical to conclude that they would once again become androgynous, or even just ambiguous," says Mokoena.
She says the dandyfication of fashion can be attributed to the simple necessity of selling more clothes and more products."Although it can also be claimed that the rise of openly gay designers like Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs and Olivier Rousteing has contributed to the trend, I would argue that it is not what they design but their visibility as beautiful people that has made more men comfortable with experimenting with fashion."
Where have I seen that red before?
The Christian Louboutin signature red signifies privilege and status. Yet it took 300 years for Louboutin to catch up with Louis XIV, the original Sun King. 
The 17th-century monarch always wore red heels and soles, a trend undoubtedly encouraged by his diminutive height. Sumptuary laws, as well as the high cost of red dyes, meant only the rich and powerful could wear them...

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