Restaurant review: Greedy Buddha, Durban

06 September 2015 - 02:00 By Glynis Horning

Glynis Horning finds that nirvana comes in small helpings when she pops into Greedy Buddha's new Umhlanga home to try the Asian tapas Feeding each other Asian tapas on a sunny deck above the Palm Boulevard fountain seemed a romantic way to mark the beginning of spring. Except that Greedy Buddha, which moved into its stylish new Umhlanga home from Durban North this year, had yet to build its deck. And the fountain had been reduced to a dusty hole ahead of a major revamp - for spring, of course.As you read this it should be springing to beautiful life, but even without it, lunch at Greedy Buddha is a celebration.I'm a sucker for tapas tastings, the gastronomic equivalent of dating - delivering just enough of a dish to leave you lusting for more, rather than demanding commitment to a full serving that, much as you may love it and cherish its nutritional benefits, can tire the taste buds at times.Dates also try harder than mates, and the tapas that Rutger Eysvogel and sous chef Kyle Conradie sent to our table, artfully arranged on slates, more than made up for the view.story_article_left1You can now opt for a Greedy Buddha "full tour" - a selection of seven tapas, soup and dessert for R199 (R150 vegetarian) - or a lunch platter: any three "classic" tapas for R89 or three "signature" ones for R129. Guided by delightful staff, we ordered two different platters and shared.First up were crispy seven-spice mushrooms - bite-sized beauties coiffed in purple onion salsa and reclining on coconut pea purée. The purée was delicious and greenly luminous, quickly putting paid to feeding each other with chopsticks.I was still blotting a snail-trail down my beloved's jacket when the Szechuan chilli halloumi bites sashayed in - the hazards of speed-dating. Their salty succulence was deftly cut by the sweet crunch of candied cashews and crispy spinach.Classic Asian veg cakes were lifted by painterly swirls of roasted garlic and chilli mayo, and satay peanut lentils in a pancake with sticky hoisin sauce were so good I had to stop my man slurping the last drops with the Chinese serving spoon.But surprise star of a superb meal - the accountant with oomph - was tempura vegetables; barely battered, crisped to perfection and served with fragrant citrus ponzu and killer chilli sauce.A separate order of sashimi salad (sesame-flecked baby spinach, watercress, avo and cucumber with wasabi dressing, avo purée and Asian pesto, R89), would have made a great meal in itself, but was entirely unnecessary.Not so our order of pud - a decidedly unAsian deconstructed chocolate brownie with white chocolate mousse, Amarula foam and strawberries (R40). Superb.Owner Jess Whatts has been smart to seek out chefs of the ilk of Nardia Adams and Eysvogel (formerly of Tokara) to head up his kitchens. As you read this, Eysvogel will be migrating to a Michelin-starred eatery in Nice, but Conradie has been working beside him, and clearly has tricks of his own. Try them.Visit: Shop 1a, 12 Palm Boulevard, Umhlanga Ridge. Call 031-566-4383...

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