New Kensington bistro's breakfasts have the crowds crammed in

Joburg's Cut and Craft boasts artisanal fare and an unpretentious vibe, writes Ufrieda Ho

Safe to say that when your bistro's logo is ''I'm a chef, I'm here to feed your ass, not kiss it", you're not pitching to the fine dining or executive end of the market.

This cheeky logo belongs to Cut and Craft, a new bistro on Queen Street in Kensington, Johannesburg. It's a main drag full of antique stores, unpretentious restaurants, a pet shop, a Hospice charity store and a home industry.

It spells laid back - a million miles from the stuffy suits that the owners say were typical clientele at a hotel steakhouse they ran for years in Rosebank.

At Cut and Craft the food's got some cheffy touches but it's not snobby and the service is friendly and efficient enough.

The bistro is housed in a refurbished Edwardian home complete with pressed ceilings, bay windows and wooden floors. A converted stoep and deck means more dining space and the owners plan to extend into the back of the property.

The breakfast menu has had crowds crammed in since they opened their doors. Try the deal meal of the ''Rouser" - breakfast of two eggs, two rashers of bacon, two pork sausages and a fried tomato topped with basil pesto (R28).

The trout rosti (R79) with cream cheese, pesto and balsamic jus, a sprinkling of capers and micro greens, and black-pepper dipped lemons, was the stuff of delicious, lazy Sunday mornings.

The ''craft-style" French toast (R39) with toppings ranging from crispy leeks (R5) to meatballs (R12) and peppadews (R7) also got the thumbs up.

Cappuccinos and Americanos were strong and fresh-brewed, served with a mini chocolate cupcake delight.

If you're after more sweet treats the milkshakes served in jam jars will test your willpower. They're topped with the likes of tufts of candy floss and all-the-rage caramelised popcorn (from R43-R58).

Cakes, such as a creamy but not-too-sweet baked cheesecake, are bought in from the Cake Gallery in Bez Valley.

Cut and Craft bills itself as an artisanal bistro so you'll find gluten-free, Banting and almond milk options for everything. Also on the menu is a decent selection of craft beer and wines, and staff can whip up a cocktail too.

The bistro is open for dinner four nights a week. The dinner menu gets a bit more posh and a bit pricier, but feet through the door are a big cheer for the new kid on the Kensington block that's proving to be a firm favourite already.

•  Visit: Cut and Craft, 159 Queen Street, Kensington, Johannesburg. Wednesdays to Saturdays kitchen is open to 9.30pm. Call 011-615-0230.

• This article was originally published in The Times.