There’s so much to munch on at these three really hot Joburg eateries

Whether you’re after Latin American-inspired food and cocktails, a small eatery and wine bar or a pan-Asian dining experience, you can’t go wrong here

22 January 2023 - 00:00
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Mama Samba's rooftop cocktail bar.
Mama Samba's rooftop cocktail bar.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer

MAMA SAMBA

Mama Samba is a place I knew I’d love before it opened. Whether it was the inviting storefront or the promise of feel-good Latin American flair, I wasn't wrong.

The latest offering from Colada House, the team behind flagship eatery Proud Mary, the restaurant and cocktail bar opened mid-December and is the “It” spot among the proliferation of offerings in Rosebank’s The Zone.

Spanning two levels, the restaurant is expansive. A lush oasis with high ceilings and smooth lines awaits diners on the first level, with its ceviche bar and Copa dining lounge having an elegant, light feel. 

Mama Samba's lush Copa dining lounge with mirrored staircase.
Mama Samba's lush Copa dining lounge with mirrored staircase.
Image: Supplied

A mirrored emerald staircase, one of Joburg’s most striking locations for Insta inspiration, leads to the cocktail bar and inviting jungle terrace, where relaxed morning and afternoon dining make way for a supper club.

The décor is impressive, with giant, white, taco-shaped light fixtures, greenery spilling from every crevice and a round bar at the centre of the rooftop with gorgeous touches to provide more Insta backdrops.

The food is inspired by Latin and Central American flavours, making for a meat-heavy menu, but with plenty of fish and seafood options, and limited but tasty vegetarian dishes.

Diners are invited to share their food, from small plates and Nikkei sushi — made with Peruvian ingredients and Japanese techniques — to grilled dishes from the josper (a coal oven for smoking and grilling) and parrilla (an open firewood and charcoal grill).

Acevichado Rainbow Roll from Mama Samba.
Acevichado Rainbow Roll from Mama Samba.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer
Mexicola beef ribs and a Lupita cocktail.
Mexicola beef ribs and a Lupita cocktail.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer

Choosing what to eat is the trick, but the waiters have excellent knowledge and are quick to provide recommendations and point out popular dishes — and not one disappointed.

We revelled in the pork belly chicharrones in reposado sauce, the tequila sunrise chicken skewers and punchy white fish ceviche as part of the small-plate offering.

From the parrilla we shared sticky Mexicola beef ribs. Mexican Coca-Cola, I’m told, is slightly sweeter, making for a clever marinade to produce sticky, moreish morsels that fall off the bone.

Victims of overindulgence, we just couldn’t get to some of the delicious-sounding dishes from the dessert menu, boasting the likes of mescal and lime pie and passion-fruit vanilla flan.

Oysters are prepared three ways and served on ice.
Oysters are prepared three ways and served on ice.
Image: Supplied
Cured white fish ceviche.
Cured white fish ceviche.
Image: Supplied

The cocktails, on the other hand, go down without effort. Strong, punchy and beautiful, they hero rum and tequila, which blend into flavourful, exclusive libations such as the Mamacita-Rita, Lupita, Copa Caipirinha or the Oaxaca Old Fashioned, which I’m going to try next.

I’ll be perfectly content to wine, dine and share my way through the entire food and cocktail menu.

Mama Samba is in The Zone, Rosebank, and is open daily from 9am until late. For reservations, WhatsApp 068 134 3770, call 010 110 0313 or email Mytable@mamasamba.co.za.


ACID FOOD AND WINE BAR

There’s a chic new eatery and wine bar in town and it comes in the form of Acid Food and Wine Bar, a space where the hip folk congregate, unusual wines are curated and good food is celebrated.

The brainchild of sommelier Jemma Styer and chef Jessie Doveton, Acid opened last October and has been a popular newcomer to Joburg’s restaurant scene. It’s not unusual to find it packed on a Tuesday night, friends gathered over glasses of wine, couples sharing small plates and the occasional birthday party playing out on the terrace outside.


Acid Food and Wine Bar.
Acid Food and Wine Bar.
Image: Kim Van Vuuren

Perhaps the most charming aspect is its size. A round bar is stationed in the middle of the space, with tables seating mostly two to four branching out. The space is small, cosy, intimate, but welcoming.

The wine menu is a treat, offering an unusual selection of mostly natural, minimal-intervention varieties from marginalised, independent producers who don’t usually get listed or are hard to find. Expect a small selection of bubblies, whites, reds and rosés that will appeal to every taste. Styer also tries to include at least one orange and one Pet-Net (Methode Ancestrale) on the menu, which changes regularly.

Wines are available by the bottle or glass (averaging R85 for 125ml), which offers wine lovers the opportunity to try a variety without committing to an unknown bottle.


Brunia White Blend, green nam jim oysters, bread and butter, and marinated olives.
Brunia White Blend, green nam jim oysters, bread and butter, and marinated olives.
Image: Kate Liquorish
The focus is on natural wines from marginalised producers, with menus changing weekly.
The focus is on natural wines from marginalised producers, with menus changing weekly.
Image: Kate Liquorish

They also have weekly bar takeovers and Wine Wednesdays, with small menus that run for a week.

The food menu reflects the intention behind the wine menu: changing weekly, it’s small, curated and focused on quality. Described as “global cuisine”, it is inspired by traditional local and global recipes, placing particular emphasis on Southeast Asian flavours.

Expect mostly bar snacks and small plates to share, with limited larger offerings. The emphasis is on fresh ingredients and if the menu contains oyster or mussel dishes in a week a new delivery hasn’t arrived, these dishes aren’t available, as I discovered much to my disappointment.

Cauliflower risotto.
Cauliflower risotto.
Image: Kim Van Vuuren

A highlight on the night I visited were the cabbage-filled spring rolls served in crispy lettuce leaves; the green pea and balnori goat’s cheese risotto; and the crispy squid served with a gochujang hot sauce, garlic emulsion and charred corn. The selection is small but still caters to vegans and vegetarians.

Whether you’re dining out or looking to enjoy an exciting wine, you can expect something new and exciting on every visit, just don’t forget to book in advance.

Acid is at 19 4th Avenue, Parktown North, and is open Tuesday to Saturday from 5pm to late. Reservations can be made via Dineplan

CHUNKY CHAU

If you enjoy feasting with your eyes, then a banquet awaits at Chunky Chau. Described as a “Pan Asian fusion dining experience”, the restaurant opened last September and is a delightful addition to the ever-expanding restaurant scene in Rosebank.

Relaxed seating outside gives way to rich, velvet drapes and wraparound barstools, lush green ferns spill from baskets and light fittings and peacock feathers dangling from lofty chandeliers pick up the motifs jumping off an impressive mural to one side.

Chunky Chau's velvet-clad bar.
Chunky Chau's velvet-clad bar.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer

The atmosphere translates as something playful from noon, when the restaurant opens, and transforms into something more moody as the sun sets and the lights dim — the right place for a sexy date night, perhaps.

From the velvet-clad bar comes a small but fair wine list and a selection of cocktails described as “spiked tea infusions”, available in alcoholic and non-alcoholic options. Some are syrupy, but those served in teapots and small cups add a touch of flair.

The menu draws widely from Asia, starting with fresh oysters, tasty parcels (potstickers, spring rolls and baos), noodle and rice dishes, small sharing plates, Thai curries, large plates, poke bowls and salads, and a few sweet dishes.

The dramatic interior.
The dramatic interior.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer
Black and blue unicorn cha cocktail.
Black and blue unicorn cha cocktail.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer

The venue prides itself on serving unusual plates of sushi and the eight-layer Shaolin Square Jewel with fresh salmon and tuna is perhaps the most beautiful you’ll find in Joburg.

Their pork potstickers were phenomenal, with a rich and flavoursome filling delicately wrapped in a soft dumpling skin.

I also wholly enjoyed their version of Panang red chicken curry made with tomato and lychees, garnished with coconut and fresh basil, and served with a fragranced rice.

Shaolin Square Jewel sushi.
Shaolin Square Jewel sushi.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer
Panang red chicken curry.
Panang red chicken curry.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer

Their bao with sweet and juicy duck carried some lovely flavours, but lacked the fluffy texture indicative of a good bao, perhaps because they’re served as larger baos that have been quartered and filled. And the miso kansui ramen was generous and deliciously spicy but its flavour disappointing. If you eat meat, I suggest adding beef or chicken as the tofu is bland.

On the whole, Chunky Chau balances a striking setting, good service and tasty food to keep people coming back for more.

Chunky Chau is in The Firs, Rosebank, and is open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to late. For reservations, phone 010-590-8777 or email reservations@chunkychau.co.za


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