Q. How does one go about getting a visa for Mongolia? Recently, I heard that if one visits for fewer than 30 days one can obtain a visa on arrival. Is that true? - Catherine Schorr
A. The bad news is that Mongolia has no consulate or embassy in SA through which you can apply for a visa. The good news is that this means you can get a visa on arrival - provided you make arrangements beforehand. When I explained the South African situation to the Mongolian Embassy in London, they responded with the following e-mail.
"You can get visa-on-arrival in Mongolia. For that process, your inviter in Mongolia need to register you at the Immigration Office in Mongolia. Therefore, please contact your counterpart in Mongolia for registering you visa-on-arrival."
If you'd like more information from the embassy, their e-mail address is office@embassyofmongolia.co.uk.
The information, however, was confirmed by Almont, which is one of two agencies that the embassyofmongolia.co.uk recommends for helping would-be visitors with visa applications. A consultant there said: "South African nationals can obtain their visas upon arrival, provided that business or tourist visa approval from MFA of Mongolia has been received."
The crucial thing then is that your visa is pre-arranged by someone in Mongolia, so ask your hotel or tour operator if they can assist with this.
When you arrive, in addition to the pre-approval letter, you will need 108,000 MTN (about R625) and two passport photos.
If you'd prefer to have your visa before you leave South Africa, you can arrange this through the other company the embassy mentions, the London-based Real Russia.
They have a detailed website and an online chat facility, through which I was told they can do the application for you - but it will take both time and money. Their "standard service" takes six working days and costs £94.86 (about R1,850) and their express service takes two days and costs £130.56 (R2,520). The consultant pointed out, however, that "working days" in Mongolia are Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays.
The greater problem for you is that Real Russia will need your passport to make the application. Therefore, you will have to send it - the consultant said they had found DHL and Fedex to be safe - along with the signed visa-application form (they will send you a link); and a recent colour photo. You will also need confirmation of both inbound and outbound flight or train bookings, hotel reservations and travel insurance. Real Russia can also help with these arrangements, if you like.
Once approved, they will send the passport back to you, for which you will also have to pay. The consultant quoted me £46 (about R900) to send it to the Sunday Times address in Parktown, Johannesburg...