Restaurant Reviews

One dish wonders: single-focus eateries delight Cape Town foodies

Marrow Broth Bar and Davy Croquettes specialise in making just one type of dish - and they do it really, really well, writes Kit Heathcock

17 January 2018 - 00:00 By Kit Heathcock
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Davy Croquettes's croquettes are finger food with full-plate flavour,
Davy Croquettes's croquettes are finger food with full-plate flavour,
Image: Supplied

DAVY CROQUETTES

When a food truck settles down and puts down roots you get Davy Croquettes, hidden upstairs above Narona on Buitenkant Street. Perch on a barstool on the balcony overlooking the mountain and feast on the humble croquette elevated to creative heights.

Chef Dave Titley takes inspiration from the Spanish and Dutch styles of croquettes, some with pure meaty oomph, others oozing melted cheese. He slow roasts pork belly for the pork and sage croquettes with sweet mustard and candies his own jalapenos for the jalapeno and feta (all the joy of a chili popper without the fuss). It’s finger food with full-plate flavour, four croquettes served in a bamboo boat with a home-made dunking sauce.

“They are so diverse, you can cook whatever you want as a chef and turn it into a croquette,” says Dave, who continually dreams up new flavour combinations. I loved the peppered pulled pork dunked in chilli onion jam, and the simple sour cream was perfect with the rich date, bacon and goat’s cheese croquettes.

MARROW BROTH BAR

Bone broth has always been good for you but until now it’s hardly been sexy. At Marrow Broth Bar the hard work is done for you. Nourishing broths are cooked slowly over two days to extract all the goodness and flavour, and then served in Japanese street food style and elegance.

Broths are simple and unfussy, and adapt to your mood, says chef Danielle of Marrow Broth Bar.
Broths are simple and unfussy, and adapt to your mood, says chef Danielle of Marrow Broth Bar.
Image: Supplied

Think clear broth poured over a bowl of roast chicken and chorizo for a light lunch, or intense deep-brown broth with red wine and harissa for a richer feel, with thin slices of springbok, apricots and almonds.

The vegan white broth has all the comfort of coconut, miso and lemongrass with roast aubergine, tofu and turnip. The green pescatarian option, dashi broth with kombu, evokes the ocean, with steamed fish and vegetables.

Chef Danielle has just added a golden bowl salad of turmeric quinoa with kimchi and roast sweet potato, and she’s developing chilled broth recipes for summer.

“Broth is super simple, clean and not fussy,” she says, “and adapts to whatever you’re in the mood for.”


This article was originally published in the Sunday Times Neighbourhood: Property and Lifestyle guides. Visit Yourneighbourhood.co.za


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