Chef Lorna Maseko has delicious things up her sleeve

The celebrity has started hosting exclusive dinners closer to home and will soon be doing a culinary pop-up in Los Angeles

14 June 2023 - 07:06
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Chefs Lorna Maseko and Rikku O'Donnchu's take on the South African classic seven colours.
Chefs Lorna Maseko and Rikku O'Donnchu's take on the South African classic seven colours.
Image: Captured by Melu

As soon as I stepped into the Beechwood Gardens foyer, it felt as though I had been transported into a modern day version of Bridgerton, complete with violin music floating from the bottom of a staircase, waiters dressed to the nines, glasses of wine drifting past on trays and the view of an elegant dining table ready to receive guests in a side room.

Stepping outside, there were canapés making the rounds with a view of the lush garden. The only hint that this was not, in reality, Britain in the 1800s was the fact that I had just popped a biltong bonbon with ricotta into my mouth, which was paired with a sauvignon blanc from Iona Wines in the Elgin Valley.

The intimate dinner and wine pairing — which took place as part of celebrity chef Lorna Maseko's bespoke catering services, Celebrate by Lorna Maseko — was prepared for a group of 20 guests and was the doing of Maseko in partnership with chef Rikku Ó'Donnchü, who previously worked as head chef at Adams Restaurant in the UK and executive chef at Doshi in the US, both Michelin-star restaurants.

Magwinya, liver parfait and atchar gel.
Magwinya, liver parfait and atchar gel.
Image: Captured by Melu
A bricohe kota with a pomme fritter and quail egg.
A bricohe kota with a pomme fritter and quail egg.
Image: Captured by Melu

The dynamic of this duo meant diners were treated to South African food à la Maseko, with a gastronomic flair à la Ó'Donnchü.

“I love South African food. I love what it represents and I thought, why not bring in somebody who has a gastronomy background to be able to change it up and see what we could do with the food I grew up with?” said Maseko.

The end result was an eight-course dinner of dishes like magwinya with liver parfait and atchar gel; kota made with a brioche bun, potato fritter and quail egg; the most elegant mantwana you’ll ever eat, served with dombolo and fried sage in a consommé; a twist on pickled fish served in a broth with coriander oil and puffed fish skin; and their version of seven colours.

To finish, there was a peppermint tart and a final touch of “ice” in the form of nostalgic ice lollies.

Dombolo, mantwana and fried sage.
Dombolo, mantwana and fried sage.
Image: Captured by Melu
Pickled fish in broth, coriander oil and puffed fish skin.
Pickled fish in broth, coriander oil and puffed fish skin.
Image: Captured by Melu

My favourite dish was the fish: acidic, spicy, warm and comforting, with a touch of sweetness and hint of oil which delicately coated my mouth.

This dinner was more low-key as Maseko invited guests who love to travel and are intrigued by food who she thought would enjoy an exclusive dinner date.

Going forward, the idea is to host more dinners and open them to the public.

“It’s about creating an experience, it’s about people coming together and laughing and relaxing and enjoying food,” Maseko said when I ask her about her idea for the dinners.

An elegant table for elegant food.
An elegant table for elegant food.
Image: Captured by Melu

The next dinner on local soil is planned for August and will be held in partnership with Sarah Todd, a contestant in MasterChef Australia seasons 6 and 14.

“This one will be open to anybody who loves Sarah, who loves me and enjoys a gathering with great food and great wine,” Maseko said.

For now the chef’s attention is turned to Los Angeles, where she will host a six-course pop-up dinner later this month to showcase South African food, which will feature some of the dishes she created with Ó'Donnchü.

Maseko explained: “I’ve been travelling to the US for the past few years and in my travels I’ve realised South African food is really not represented. I’m excited, I’m nervous.

“Food is so opinionated that we can both go to the same restaurant and not have the same feel or experience. I’d like to think my food tastes good, so hopefully people will like it and will keep an open mind.”

When she gets back, my hope is you too will keep an open mind and book for one of her pop-up dinners. She might be cooking South African classics but you’ll no doubt be in for a few surprises.

If it sounds like your plate of food, keep an eye on Maseko’s social media pages for announcements of upcoming dinners and to see what she’ll be cooking in LA.

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