Accidental Tourist: An ancient grudge

Everyone - even shady, stuck-up Rome - deserves a second chance

December 1 2009, a grey day outside Fiumicino International Airport in Rome. Equally cloudy are my thoughts: Italy is so consumerist, vacuous, self-absorbed and alienating that it doesn't deserve its historical, artistic and architectural wonders - or its tourists' adoration. Today's Roman empire is marked by mindless graffiti, aimless youth and Silvio Berlusconi, then still the prime minister. Bah humbug.

Italy was presented to me, in my growing years, as the acme of civilisation. From the ancient empire to the Renaissance to present day, "Italian" equalled high culture. It had aqueducts, roads, arches, Latin, law, Da Vinci, Dante, Vivaldi and Michelangelo. Later, Ferrari, Pirelli, Gucci, Versace, Armani, Fellini and Prada. There was no shortage of swish European stylishness to covet from afar.

By and by (and by), I discovered more about Italy: the many centuries of provincial wars, plagues, poverty, patriarchy, grand-scale corruption and the Mafia. Finally I went to Italy - a rude awakening indeed. I visited again a year later. More disenchantment and grumpiness. So I went again recently, just to make sure I was done with Italy.

October 3 2011, a warm, late-summer evening outside Fiumicino. Briefly dark and cloudy are my thoughts: OMG, this airport's toilets need some serious attention, so much for Roman sanitation. But it's difficult to remain grumpy after a lovely day with one's beloved, strolling through Porta Pia and Trastevere, taking in the endlessly engaging sights, sounds and tastes of the city.

Sure, the tagging is still abundant, though many of Rome's buildings have withstood and outlasted a great deal more than morons with spray paint. Sure, the city isn't as clean as it could be. Buses are too crowded. The government hasn't changed. Romans are mostly rude .

. But then you come across a great trattoria with in-season artichokes and dimply little gnocchetti resting lightly in a basil tomato sauce, with good wine, great bread, and friendly waiters. Or you notice the afternoon light beaming across a red geranium on a turquoise-shuttered windowsill. Or perhaps you get seduced by the fresh fruit and veg market at Porta Pia, wishing you had such mouthwatering abundance at a market nearer home.

Rome is surprising and wondrous at turns. The marvellous thing about this city is that you can see its main marvels in surprisingly little time if you get a map (Rome's tourist map - Charta Roma - is great) and good walking shoes. Ancient Rome was small and modern Rome has a good bus service, so between the shoes and buses you can see all the most jaw-dropping attractions in about two days of determined touring. The important thing about Rome is to notice the details around you: details in the buildings and in the spaces, whether spectacular or small.

The highlight of my October visit was joining a large, festive gathering at Piazza Navona (a lovely square with three famous fountains). The reason for the gathering was ultimately to listen to left-wing politician Nichi Vendola. He spoke passionately about the need for new political practices in Italy - the need for democratic, open-minded, inclusive, environmentally responsible politicians to govern and be accountable. And he seemed entirely sincere. What a speech, what a day!

As a last observation, I can't ignore the fact that the eloquent Vendola looked gorgeous in a crisp, white, long-sleeve shirt, with an elegant but lively turquoise tie and well-tailored grey trousers. He's a stereotypical urbane Italian man. But don't be deceived by the stylish stereotype: in Vendola's words is the heartbeat of Italy's potential to be its better self. Blossom Italia! - Lisa Treffry-Goatley is a publisher and writer from Johannesburg