Graeme Hosken busts the myths about visiting this tiny nation at the northern tip of South America Pirates of yesteryear, Indian gold, pristine beaches, old colonial towns, lush rainforests, churches, sashaying salsa girls, a land of adventures, nightclubs and the inevitable mojito - the best in the whole of South America if you ask a Colombian.In fact, if you ask the Colombians, they have the best of everything in the whole of Latin America.They have simply the best South America has to offer and have no qualms about telling you this as they welcome you into their homes and lives, as warmly as if you were a long-lost relative who has suddenly returned home.Colombia, once home to notorious drug cartels, kidnapping and rebel forces, is now becoming the place to visit, thanks to its incredible natural beauty, friendly people and the government's determination to eradicate crime."We love you no matter who you are or where you are from just as long as you support our soccer team and anything else that is Colombian."This was my taxi driver's greeting as I landed in Cartagena, Colombia's "party capital".I was not in Cartagena to party. Okay, maybe a little bit. I was there for "serious" work, covering an international crime conference, a pretty ironic setting given that the town was the Caribbean capital of pirates in the 1700s.But who can work all day every day in a town where music plays 24/7 and party people are constantly pouring onto the beaches and into sidewalk cafés, streets bars and restaurants?mini_story_image_vleft1There is a reason the high-sea pirates, who plundered and terrorised the merchant vessels of England and Spain in the 1700s, made this their home. If they'd had their way, rather than swinging by the neck from ropes, they would have stayed and their descendants would probably still be around to call it home.Today, it is Colombia's go-to party zone, while still maintaining its colonial history.Its walled, well-preserved old city can be seen on a guided tour or lazy meandering through narrow alleyways. Hop-on hop-off bus tours are also available and highly recommended, especially at night. The Chiva Bus offers a boozy tour, taking patrons from bar to bar, all night long. Be warned, though, this is not for sissies.With its pristine beaches and as a gateway to Colombia's Caribbean islands, Cartagena offers loads of adventures, be it sunning oneself on a beach or taking a boat tour.Accommodation is affordable but not entirely cheap, although many B&Bs and backpacker's appear open for negotiations depending on your length of stay.Not to be outdone by its coastal cousin is the city of Cali, a contender for the world's salsa capital, boasting many world-champion teams and clubs. Almost every restaurant at some point in the day has an impromptu salsa event, every day.Bogota, Colombia's capital and home to a heaving mass of people, takes at least two hours to cross on what is their version of the Rea Vaya and MyCiti buses (which are, in fact, based on the Colombian concept).Its enthralling discoveries include the whitewashed church at Monserrate, poised high on a mountain overlooking the city. If you're determined, stupid, brave or fit enough, you can walk up it.Otherwise, the funicular is far more fun and easier on the lungs - though mine was immensely overcrowded with pilgrims desperate to view the church's 400-year-old statue of the Señor Caído (Fallen Christ), said to be able to perform miracles.story_article_right1Another breath-taking stop was the Gold Museum. Home to the world's largest collection of pre-Hispanic gold, the museum has on show 6,000 of its 55,000-piece collection, providing a glimpse into the history of the indigenous people.Case upon case contains pieces of intricate, exquisite jewellery. The central piece is the acclaimed Muisca Raft, sometimes referred to as the El Dorado Raft, dated between 600 AD and 1600 AD but found in 1969 in Lake Guatavita, about two hours' drive from Bogota. The scene shown in this artwork depicts the legend of a Muisca king who would cover himself in gold dust during festivals, then dive into the lake.The Cathedral of Zipaquirá, deep in the heart of a working salt mine, is also a must-see. Eerily quiet, it has the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus carved into the rocks with a giant cross at the centre .As for party vibes, Bogota boasts its own unique form of nightlife. The world-famous, multi-storey Andrés Carne de Res restaurant/nightclub is where the who's-who come to be seen. It's pricey but worth it - just make sure your timing is right, your queuing shoes are on and your wallet is loaded with enough Benjamins to get you through the doors.For nature lovers, there are the beautiful beaches of the protected Tayrona National Natural Park on the Caribbean coast; the snow-capped volcanoes; and the Amazon region, which occupies over half of the country and is part of the massive Amazon rainforest.Home to amazing treasures, including river dolphins, malocas (ancestral long houses used by the natives of the Amazon) and wild macaws, it is easy to tour, whether you see yourself as a swashbuckling adventurer or someone who likes to live it up in the lap of luxury. Tours are a dime a dozen and are suited to the needs of all.mini_story_image_hleft2It's worth going to the Cano Cristales, known as the River of Five Colours, near the town of La Macarena. At certain times of the year, the water turns shades of red, blue, yellow, orange and green (thanks to an endemic aquatic plant, macarenia clavigera, which requires just the right water level and just the right amount of sunlight to take on its bright hues).Medellin, the city of eternal spring, is the world's "coffee capital", boasting a coffee theme park (seeing is believing) including rollercoasters, dance shows and amazing restaurants. It has been voted South America's most progressive city thanks to its outdoor lifestyle, parks, libraries and restaurants.Festivals are easy to come by. No matter what the month or even day of the week, somewhere in Colombia there will be a festival and many rival even Rio's version in both scale and popularity.It is here that both old and young, rich and poor, male and female Colombians join together to show why life is worth living, the food is worth eating and happiness is worth celebrating.sub_head_start IF YOU GO... sub_head_endHOW TO GET THERE: You can fly with SAA from Joburg to New York, then (with local airlines) to Mexico City and on to Bogota. For trips from now until March 2016, expect to pay around R20,000.A more direct alternative is to go via Frankfurt to Bogota on Lufthansa for around R22,000. Or go via São Paulo with SAA for around R19,000.IS IT SAFE? Colombia, once the world's capital of kidnappings and drug cartels, has finally managed to get a grip on its crime levels, deploying thousands of police into tourist areas and onto the cities' streets and highway networks. The result has seen tourist booms across the country. Of course, use your common sense, especially when using ATMs and carrying valuables. Use only reputable taxi services...