The Komodo dragon is the largest lizard in the world and reputedly one of the most deadly animals. There are not many of these unique creatures left so we went in search of them - to the other side of the world.
After a 23-hour flight to Bali, Indonesia, we hopped on a local carrier (Lion Air) to Luaban Bajo, the entrance to the Flores islands. This flight was much shorter and upon disembarking, one is welcomed by the spectacular images of the Komodo across the airport building. It is hot, humid and tropical and my heart skips a beat as we are a step closer to meeting this creature.
The town has one main "commercial" street where most tourists stay en route to the various islands nearby or indulging in scuba diving in the tropical waters. We stayed in this busy, hot town for a night.Most foreigners here are on their way in from the ocean or on their way out, and most locals are trying to cash in on the foreigners. There are options for pristine beaches and five-star establishments slightly away from this main street, or for more "vibey" options one can stay in the centre of it all in chic and retro backpackers and eat at the local outdoor harbour market, as we did.
The food is fresh from the ocean (or there are exquisite vegetarian local pancakes available) and costs next to nothing. Stalls are stacked alongside one another and each displays their catch of the day which they 'braai' Indo-style. This was one of the best meals we ate in the whole of Indonesia.
WE WERE SCEPTICAL
Our next challenge was to book ourselves on a boat that could take us to the various islands, including Komodo and Rinca, homes of the Komodo dragon.There are many local "travel agencies" along the main street and we finally settled on one that met our needs.
We were still sceptical, however, as we had heard scary stories.
We requested to view and inspect the vessel that evening and negotiated only paying 50% of the fee until we were on board in the morning.
SWIMMING WITH MANTA RAYS
All went well and we were on our way. As we waved goodbye to our English-speaking "travel-agent" it dawned on us that we were on the open ocean with a crew who spoke limited English.
The captain, captain's first hand and cook would communicate with us for the next three days with gestures and nods - all part of the unforgettable adventure.
The boat was basic with two adjoining sleeping cabins and a roof-top deck where the crew slept. A kitchen was fitted to the back with a shaded dining area at the front.
We were served local snacks including fried bananas and tempura, Indonesian cuisine and beverages to our heart's delight as we sailed among the various islands. We stopped for snorkelling here and there, and swam among schools of very large angel fish, a number of parrot fish, camouflaged pipe fish and tiny clown fish.
Back on board we searched for the local manta rays in the area known as 'Manta Point'.The sky darkened with clouds and just as we were about to give up, there they were: the most majestic and enormous bird-like manta below us.
I had done some reading beforehand and knew they were harmless. I jumped in to join a group of about eight of these creatures as they glided below the ocean's surface.
THAR BE DRAGONS
I was frightened by their size but enthralled to be sharing this once-in-a-lifetime experience with them. The pleasure was short-lived as a storm was on its way and I was beckoned back on board just in time as the skies opened. Just as quickly as the rain came, it was gone.
The next stop was Komodo, which houses the Komodo National Park, and thereafter on to Rinca, another national park. Both islands offer an opportunity to view Komodos in their natural environment.
Guided walks are available with a naturalist guide, though in the humidity it is difficult to contemplate a very long guided walk on these islands...