Like any great Birkin bag or Chanel perfume, our fashion choices often reflect who we are.
From the French Revolution’s tricolour ribbons to the reds and blues of east vs west US gangs and the Versace-loving izikhothane youth of yesteryear, our clothes don’t just tell people who we are, they also reveal the fashion families to which we belong.
In an ever-changing world of macro-trends and subcultures that have survived many seasons and new styles that crop up in our Instagram feeds, we look at eight fashion families that define the way we love to look in SA.
The minimalists
In Johannesburg, whether it’s a high tea in Hyde Park or brunch in Maboneng, there’s always somewhere for minimalists. When they’re not showing off, modelling their muted threads in front of a plain wall, they’re often spotted looking melancholy next to large paintings in galleries in Rosebank or in Design Quarter. Pale tones and oversized kaftans are staples in this household and the chunkiest accessories are used sparingly. Horizontal prints that accentuate contrasting tones are the only exceptions to their style, which is defined by ease, comfort and clean lines.
Style staples: AKJP, Mmuso Maxwell and Uniform
Androgynous
“A great mind must be androgynous,” said English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge. His credo on androgyny lives on today in the style of genderless non-conformers. Tailored suits are a must and often take on a sartorial swagger when paired with the right sneakers. If Janelle Monáe’s late 2000s style is the cultural reset you live by then this might just be the house for you.
These are more than your regular dandy fashion lovers who pine for Pitti Uomo invites and Oscar Wilde literature. They dress to the nines every with perfectly paired trousers and blazers.
Style staples: Floyd Avenue, Inga Atelier, Row-G
Vamp
Never make the mistake of confusing them with latter-day Goths and emo punks. The vamps are leather-loving fashionistas who swear to stop wearing black the day a darker colour is discovered. Tulle on dresses and plumes on handbags will dominate their fashion aesthetic, but don’t assume they are dainty damsels in distress. These sirens never hide and they love to make an entrance.
Style staples: David Tlale, Rich Mnisi
Disco glam
Whether you’ve got Biba fever or the sounds of Studio 54 on your favourite playlist, everyone knows the real party is in your wardrobe. Whether the dance floor is in Melville or Sandton, no place is too bland for these dancing queens to cut a rug. But don’t assume fashion is a gauche affair for the glamazons; their passion for fashion is really just a shimmering fashion spread. Sequins, paillettes and beads are the dominant focus of their choices.
Style staples: Crystal Birch, Ruff Tung
Brights
They’re bold and larger than life, but so are their fashion choices. Not to be confused with maximalists, these fashionistas love daring pieces that would have vamp or minimalist mavens emptying their Valium stock. Defined by their love of an African aesthetic, authenticity is found in Xhosa- or Venda-inspired graphics that often complement each other. Cleaner takes on ensembles are imbued by the popping pinks or raving red tones that best accentuate their love for oversized fashion items that are built for fashion lovers of any body type.
Style staples: Mantsho, MaXhosa
Maximalist
More is always more for these Cerf-style-loving risk-takers. There is never a fashion item too cheap or too expensive to combine for their eccentric take on textures, prints and accessories. It’s all about larger-than-life graphic motifs that accentuate their love for whimsical gowns and accessories. Bejewelled head pieces that balance the dramatic silhouette of their fashion choices are often their go-to accessories and you might give them a seizure if you imply that wearing a ball gown to a braai is not dressing down.
Style staples: The Bam Collective, Viviers
Thebe’s Tribe
It’s all about pleats, prints and a feminine touch. Members of the Thebe Magugu Tribe cannot be missed in their bold yet delicate work wear. Whether they have their own seat at a corner office or talk money matters at the latest wine tasting, these corporate queens love local and often wear nothing else.
Style staples: Thebe Magugu
Cottage core
It is often thought that when economies and politics are fraught, fashion buckles back to simpler times. No surprise then that VSCO girls and Instagram fashionistas have brought back cottage core with their prairie-girl ensembles. A style often dominated by dresses, you’ll spot your local cottage-core queen in outfits layered with frills, puffy sleeves and vintage florals that all scream Victorian-era glamour.
Style staples: Sindiso Khumalo, Sober
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