CITY BREAK: Up close township tour

FOR me the notion of a "township tour" has always conjured up images of tourists experiencing a location briefly and superficially. From the windows of an air-conditioned bus driven by a guide who regurgitates information from textbooks and brochures, they pause only to "shoot" a scene with their state-of-the-art cameras which they will later show their families back home. It seemed too contrived for me.

It was with these reservations that I drove out, with a friend, to Lebo's Soweto Backpackers for an overnight stay and a tour of the world's most famous township. We'd both been to Soweto before to party, attend funerals, weddings and chill at shisanyamas. But neither of us has close friends nor family living there so we'd never had the chance to really immerse ourselves in its culture or history.

STAY AT LEBO'S SOWETO BACKPACKERS

We knew we'd arrived at Lebo's Soweto Backpackers when we saw a tuk-tuk and bicycles parked in front of a tropical-themed house.

This was one of the first and only known black-owned backpackers in Soweto and the only one in this township that offers tuk-tuk rides and bicycle tours.

Upon our arrival we were greeted by Lebo Malepa, the founder and owner. He's an avid traveller who turned his grandparents' home into a backpackers after they died. It consists of a dormitory room with 10 bunk beds and two private rooms that cater for couples. He's also transformed the garden into a tropical-themed chill area equipped with a bar, braai area and courtyard.

VILAKAZI STREET

A few blocks away from the backpackers is Soweto's famous Vilakazi Street.

It's one of the world's most popular streets because it has been home to two Nobel prize laureates - Nelson Mandela's former house has been turned into a museum and Desmond Tutu still lives in the neighbourhood. Once we were settled at the backpackers we decided to be tourists and explore Vilakazi Street.

When we walked into Sakhumzi, a restaurant on Vilakazi Street that specialises in traditional South African cuisine, I overheard tourists speaking about how they enjoyed the unplanned and unexpected experiences that come with walking without a guide. I continued to eavesdrop and people-watch as we tucked into Sakhumzi's lunch-time buffet menu of pap, samp, rice, curries, stews, tripe, salads and chakalaka. The restaurant also had a few desserts on offer, but after indulging in the homely meals that we'd craved for so long, we were too content to taste them.

A SUNSET TUK-TUK RIDE

After our long and lazy lunch at Sakhumzi, we went on a complimentary sunset tuk- tuk ride. As Lebo took us on a tuk-tuk cruise, we got to know him a bit more.

He told us he got the idea for the tuk-tuk and bicycle tours after a trip around Europe and Asia. He reminisced about his childhood and the gangster culture that used to exist in Soweto, and told us that living in the historically rich township has inspired him to achieve his dreams. We even popped into a popular shebeen in the area - something that would be taboo for young, black women like us to do on our own.

Before going to Lebo's Soweto Backpackers I'd only ever seen tuk-tuks in travel features about Thailand and India, so I never imagined that my first ride would be in Soweto.

THE SATURDAY NIGHT BRAAI

Every Saturday night, Lebo's Soweto Backpackers has a braai on the premises. We were outnumbered by tourists from Europe and America who were dancing and exchanging stories: the vibe at the braai made me feel like we were hosting the World Cup all over again.

But what really stood out that night was the camaraderie. Guests were lending each other chargers and batteries, Lebo's wife helped the staff serve dessert, and the family next door offered extra parking to guests at the backpackers.

It's that kind of unity that made my trip to Lebo's Soweto Backpackers feel like I was visiting a friend's home in Soweto - the unplanned, unexpected experiences that the tourists were talking about.

Fact File:

Directions: Lebo's Soweto Backpackers is situated at number 10823A Pooe Street, Orlando West, Soweto.

Contact details: Call 011-936-3444 or visit www.sowetobackpackers.com

Rates: Dormitory accommodation at Lebo's Soweto Backpackers is R125 per person. Dinner (braai) - R70 per person. Free sunset Tuk-Tuk ride from Lebo's Soweto Backpackers.

Sakhumzi is situated at number 6980 Vilakazi Street, Orlando West, Soweto. You can call 011-536-1267/939-4427 or visit www.sakhumzi.co.za