My temple of motorbikes & surfboards: an insider's guide to Bali

British bike adventurer Charley Boorman on the best places to stay, eat and catch some waves on this Indonesia island

24 September 2017 - 00:00 By The Sunday Telegraph

Why Bali?
I first visited for a television show in 2008 and have since stayed with my family at a friend's home in Canggu, a beach area north of Seminyak in the south.
Bali has a bit of everything: sandy beaches, coral reefs, forested volcanic mountains and dense jungle.
To the south, the city of Kuta has lively bars, while Seminyak, Sanur and Nusa Dua are popular resort towns. Prime surfing spots such as Padang Padang, Uluwatu and Canggu in the south attract enthusiasts from around the world.Anything special I should pack?
A surfboard. Bali is a surfer's paradise. The peak surfing season is between April and October and it's the ideal place to learn.
What do you miss most when away?
I've had lots of motorcycle injuries and recently smashed up my legs very badly, so I miss the warm, tropical climate, which helps ease the discomfort. May is the hottest month, averaging 28°C.
First thing you do when you arrive?
I head for Echo Beach in Canggu, one of the island's best surfing spots. There are three main breaks, making it ideal for everyone from beginner to advanced level. There's also a restaurant strip along the beach - the ideal point for watching the sunset.Where's the best place to stay?
There are many spectacular properties on the island - from beachside villas to secluded treehouses - so Airbnb is probably the best approach.
Accommodation rates can vary, depending on availability and the season, so it's worth double-checking the final price before confirming your booking.
Where do you take a first-time visitor?
Most people visit Bali for its beaches. There's something for everyone, from remote stretches of soft white sand and secret coves under towering limestone cliffs to black-sand beaches that point to the island's volcanic past.
 
Where is the best place for lunch?
Tucked away opposite the former Royal Palace in Ubud, Ibu Oka's shanty café is a Bali institution and arguably the most famous place to order babi guling, a delicious, Balinese-style, whole-roasted suckling pig, stuffed with spices. The restaurant opens around 10.30am and tables fill up quickly.And for dinner?
Lacalita Cantina Mexicana (lacalacabali.com), just off Seminyak's famous Eat Street, is a fabulous Mexican restaurant run by Adelaide-born chef Will Lovejoy.
Their short-rib burger, flavoured with Mexican spices, is a sophisticated take on the American classic, but I particularly like their tacos filled with slow-braised meats and fresh, island fruits.Where do you meet friends for a drink?
The Deus Café in Canggu, next door to Deus Ex Machina's Temple of Enthusiasm, a shop selling vintage motorbikes and surfboards. It has a great bar and there's always a live band on Sundays. The food is good too - a fusion of Indonesian and Western cuisine.What should I avoid?
The rainy season, which typically falls between October and March. The worst months are usually January and February, although it's not nearly as bad as other regions in Southeast Asia.
What should I bring home?
The rag trade is a huge industry in Bali, so it's a great place to buy clothes. You'll find everything from hand-painted batiks and colourful beachwear to designer gear.Public transport or taxi?
Bali is bigger than you might think and the poor standard of roads, not to mention the heavy traffic in the south, make the going even more time-consuming.
While it's possible to get around using the local transport system (bemos), many visitors prefer to travel by hire car or taxi.
However, the best way to explore is by scooter. There are around 30 million scooters in Indonesia, apparently. Just ask your hotel to have one delivered for you.Manbag or money belt?
Manbag is fine. One of the lovely things about Indonesia is that the people are extremely kind and gentle.
Anywhere that isn't your kind of town?
I've never been to a place I didn't like. I try to get the best out of wherever I visit.
• 'Long Way Back' by Charley Boorman (AA Publishing), which recounts the adventurer's recovery from a dramatic bike accident, is out now...

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