Designer Stefano Pilati goes solo with Random Identities label

After years of controlling the creative vision of two enormous luxury houses — Yves Saint Laurent and Ermenegildo Zegna — Italian designer Stefano Pilati is back with Random Identities, his own label of ready-to-wear. The result is a unisex collection of utilitarian garments that have been “primed for the digital era”.

Premiered via live-streaming earlier this month in Montreal, Canada, at the headquarters of e-commerce giant SSENSE, the collection is many things operating in harmony. At the heart of it is a kind of love letter to the designer’s adopted home of Berlin, Germany, where he has resided since his departure from Zegna in 2016. With Pilati stating one of his key sources of inspiration was the style of his friends, the references to the city’s famous love affair with the night have been realised unapologetically.

While ready for a rave many, if not all, of the pieces have an effortless wearability, thanks to the designer’s expert eye for tailoring, and one could imagine many of the garments (particularly the covetable outerwear) becoming staples appropriate even in daylight. The collection straddles many worlds. That of day and that of night. The confines of gender roles and a new, more fluid, approach. It is romantic but still realistic - and it seems Pilati is too.

WATCH | The premiere of Random Identities at SSENSE HQ

While it is a strong departure from the luxury seen during his time at YSL and Zegna, there are still remnants of his past reflected here, albeit through a new identity. Military references, from blouson-like jackets and cargo trousers to bombers and overcoats, are seen throughout. So too are monochromatic and subdued hues. It is Pilati not so much trapped by his past but more guided by it.

Most intriguing is the accessible pricing, with the entire line in the $90 to $405 (R1,300 to R5,800) range. Most pieces sold out within minutes of the live-stream presentation.

The designer explained his reasoning: “An honest statement is necessary: fashion at high prices no longer means exclusivity. My response is to produce moderately priced clothes -‘the low’- and present them in a high fashion context, creating limited edition items which by quality of design will justify the proposal - ‘the high’.”

Unpacking the thinking behind the name, Pilati said: “Random stands for the randomness of existence and Identities stands as a response to that randomness. The two terms define the space where people can identify themselves, not with trends, but with personality, function, quality and design.”

And this is just the start - there are great expectations for what Random Identities can be and where it can go. Judging by his debut, Pilati will probably exceed them.

• Random Identities is available exclusively at SSENSE.com