South Africans are forking out R150 for meat-free burgers that 'bleed' like beef

Pricey lab-grown meat proves a hit, but it has its critics too

26 January 2020 - 00:00 By SUTHENTIRA GOVENDER
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The Beyond Burger is said to be the world's first plant-based burger that looks, cooks and satisfies like beef. It reportedly has the juicy, meaty deliciousness of a traditional burger but comes with the benefits of a plant-based meal.
The Beyond Burger is said to be the world's first plant-based burger that looks, cooks and satisfies like beef. It reportedly has the juicy, meaty deliciousness of a traditional burger but comes with the benefits of a plant-based meal.
Image: Sandile Ndlovu

South Africans are forking out an arm and a leg for a lab-grown "beef" patty that "bleeds" yet does not contain a single ounce of meat.

The newly imported patty is an innovative plant-based offering from the US made from pea protein isolates, canola oil and beetroot "blood" to give vegans and vegetarians a taste of what it's like to sink their teeth into a "meaty" burger.

But it comes with a hefty price tag and - despite its many health benefits — has received a roasting by international nutritionists because of its high sodium content.

Retailing for anything from R129 to R150, the beef burger doppelganger has found its way into mainstream South African eateries like Spur, RocoMamas, Doppio Zero restaurants and Woolworths Cafés and appears to be a marvel to an increasing number of South Africans who are shunning animal proteins for plant-based diets.

Johannesburg-based Infinite Foods is importing Beyond Meat products including the burger, sausages and meatballs for the restaurant market. In July 2018, Beyond Meat - which makes the products - opened a new lab in El Segundo, California.

"The plant-based Beyond Burger has been touted by many South Africans as a real match to beef and they are amazed by its resemblance to beef both in taste and texture. The feedback continues to be positive with Infinite Foods," said Michelle Adelman, CEO of Infinite Foods.

But, according to Women's Health magazine, the Beyond Burger contains 380mg of sodium compared to a raw beef patty's 75mg. "There is a lot of chatter around the sodium in the Beyond Burger but it's important to look at the facts: the sodium in the patty is only 16% of your daily value," Adelman said.

The burger's hefty price tag reflected "a high level of quality and innovation", she said. "The success of the Beyond Burger in SA proves that many consumers are willing to shift from animal to plant-based meat and pay for a meal that addresses four growing global issues: human health, climate change, constraints on natural resources and animal welfare."

The Sunday Times sampled the burger at an outlet in Musgrave, Durban. The consistency of the patty was much softer than regular beef patties and tasted a little under-salted in comparison, but surprisingly it tasted like meat or close to meat.

Staff said the burger had been received "very well" by patrons.

Pick n Pay has more than doubled its plant-based range in the past six months

The 2018 documentary, The Game Changers, which explored the benefits of plant-based eating for athletes, brought to the fore the growing global shift towards this lifestyle. South Africans too are embracing a more plant-based diet.

Checkers general manager of marketing, Willie Peters, said the retailer had seen "a steady uptake in customer requests for more vegan and plant-based alternatives over the past 12 months".

Pick n Pay has also expanded its plant-based range to meet the growing demand.

The retailer said it had more than doubled its plant-based range in the past six months to include a mix of products ranging from milk alternatives and dairy-free cheese to grocery items, snacks and whole meals.

Nicki Russell, head of innovation and trend at Pick n Pay, said their research showed more customers were opting for a "flexitarian" diet which incorporated more plant-based options and less meat.

DID YOU KNOW?

• SA is among the top 30 countries worldwide where veganism was most popular over the past 12 months.

 • Stellenbosch is the most popular South African town for veganism  

 • $210m - Beyond Meat's expected revenue in 2020

Pick n Pay has lent its support to Veganuary, a nonprofit organisation that encourages people worldwide to try going vegan during January. Since its launch in 2014, Veganuary has become popular with South Africans, with participation up by more than 600% in 2019 compared to 2018. 

The Association for Dietetics in SA (Adsa) believes that "plants are definitely the new rock stars".

"An affordable diet in the average South African household is already very much plant-based, with small amounts of meat, chicken or fish used when possible, with beans, peas, lentils and foods like milk and eggs providing alternatives and good sources of protein," said Adsa spokesperson Kelly Scholtz.

"For those households with more access to expensive foods there is also likely to be more awareness of diet and nutrition trends.

"It is already clear that restaurants and retailers in SA are stocking more meat alternatives and vegetarian and vegan products in support of this trend," she said.


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