A chat with two female Rosebank restaurant stars, plus recipes

JESSICA MUNISAMY

Modern Tailors, executive chef

Coming from an average Indian home, my dad worked hard to move me to a semi-private high school to ensure I was well educated to prepare me to be the “doctor” in the family. I was then introduced to the restaurant and catering subject which excited me; it fed my soul. Dropping the news to him was initially intimidating. I took out a student loan, had my big sister stand as surety and completed my studies as a restaurant and hotel manager.

I started my career in the catering sector and spent four years working in Dubai, United Arab Emirates and another five in Doha, Qatar before returning home due to the pandemic.

Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay have been my celebrity chef inspirations. However, food has always brought my family together. I want everyone to experience the togetherness of sharing food. This is my favourite part of becoming a chef.

I am 37 years old and have been a chef for 20 years. Being a part of the Modern Tailors family has been such a vibe; it feels like a lifeline. It was the first job I applied for full-time after coming home. When I met the owners, Paul Christie and Miki Milovanovic, it felt like family immediately. They are the reason I’ve stayed so dedicated to our little family.

The name Modern Tailors came from a reference photograph of what looks like a small tailor's business. Three Indian-looking fellas are sitting inside with a strikingly colourful painted sign with the name Modern Tailors, a pair of sandals at the door and lunchtime tiffin boxes waiting outside.

Paul Christie and his wife Yogandi (who has been behind the foundation of recipes in the restaurant) are passionate about the flavours and the vast differences between Asian and Oriental cuisines. Yogandi is a phenomenal cook. Her recipes and skills having been passed down from her Tamil/Telagu mother and grandmother. Durban Indian flavours and the delectable street food they enjoyed in Mumbai became the reference and foundation of the Modern Tailors menu.

Winning a 1-star award at the EatOut Woolworths 2022 last Sunday when the restaurant has been open for less than a year makes us so proud. Being recognised for our food is such an honour.

I have fought long and hard for my place in this industry and will continue to do so. I’ve been treated unequally in my previous work experiences. Women are still fighting for their place in cheffing and trust one day we will work side by side and make it known we can do anything a man can do in the hospitality industry.

Our menu puts a modern twist on traditional Indian flavours. One of my favourite dishes is the Sri Lankan chicken — deboned thighs marinated in our signature masala and slow-cooked in fresh roasted coriander, chilli and coconut cream. Our use of fresh fruit and vegetables combined with authentic spices, sauces and dressings and farm fresh halal meat, chicken and seafood ensures we have the right foundation for the best quality food. 

What is my favourite spice? A difficult ask. It’s like asking a mother to name her favourite child! Cumin, chilli, coriander and mint are my go-to. They can be used fresh, roasted and even sprouted which gives me endless ideas to play with in creating blends.

Apart from the food Modern Tailors is also a gin bar and the Boudier saffron-infused gin is my fav because it’s got a lively spiciness and pairs well in a variety of cocktails.

Moderntailors.co.za

CHILLI BUTTER CHICKEN

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

1kg deboned chicken thighs, cut into strips

150g ginger and garlic paste

20g salt

10g coarse ground black pepper

50g fresh green chilli, crushed

20g each cumin and coriander powder

1 red onion, diced

20g curry leaves

4 green cardamom pods

200g butter

10g Kashmiri hot

100g masala

20g fresh coriander, chopped

15ml (1 tbsp) cream cheese

1 litre cream

200g almond paste

A handful of toasted cashew nuts, chopped

20g fresh coriander, chopped

Method:

1. Marinate the chicken in ginger and garlic paste, salt and pepper, cumin and coriander powder, ideally overnight for best results.
2. In a saucepan sauté onion and curry leaves with cardamom pods for about 5-6 minutes in a little oil.  
3. Add half the butter, Kashmiri hot and masala and slow cook for 2-3 minutes while stirring constantly. Don’t burn the masala. Remove from the heat and set aside.
4. Lightly brown the marinated chicken in the remaining butter then add the onion and masala mixtures with cream cheese, cream and almonds. Slow cook until you have a rich and glossy sauce. Taste to check seasoning.
5. I like to top the dish with toasted cashew nuts and fresh coriander before serving with hot naan or basmati rice.

TARYN SMITH

The Shortmarket Club, executive chef

My journey to becoming a chef is a weird one ... I never wanted to become a professional chef as I didn’t think I was good enough. I considered myself a basic home cook. I  had always loved food because my mom is an excellent cook. I was studying graphic design and a year in I decided I didn’t want to do this for the rest of my life. A neighbour suggested I try culinary school. I signed up at Prue Leith Culinary School in Centurion and at 27 years old find myself where I am today. The journey has been fulfilling and it’s nice to know that the blood, sweat, burn and tears has paid off.

It has always been difficult to be a woman in this industry as our male counterparts believe it’s a mans’ world — yet it is refreshing to see women are challenging this perception as we bring a different dynamic to a kitchen. My sentiment is that women work better under pressure and can manage the emotional issues and other struggles of the kitchen team better. I’ve been lucky to work with people who’ve supported me and don’t think I would be where I am without them.

At Shortmarket Club we aim to deliver dishes with punchy flavours featuring Asian influences. Chef Luke Dale Roberts (the owner) introduced me to the wonderful world of Asian cuisine and I love celebrating their unique take on food. Our menu, which we change seasonally, is small compared with other restaurants in Joburg which I believe gives us the edge. We regularly incorporate new items and strive to make each dish better than the previous one.

The favourite item we can’t take off the menu is the Japanese pancake, inspired by the original okonomiyaki enjoyed on the streets in Japan. Its means “as you like it” which I think is nice. It's the first dish I ever created so it will always hold a special place in my heart.

Winning awards in such a competitive industry is incredible — it’s a team effort. My kitchen team make my job super easy. I never want my chefs to be afraid to approach me; I want them to be able to trust me and know that I have their backs.

Our restaurant is known for unusual and exciting cocktails. If I have to choose my fav, it’s the hibiscus daiquiri, with lots of tequila and lots of sweetness and worthy of any celebration.

MEAT PASTA

Serves 6-8

My favourite dish when I’m not working is one my mom always makes for us. Alas, we don’t have a creative name for it.

Ingredients:

700g beef steak. We use fillet because my mom is “boujee”

Salt and pepper

Oil

200ml white wine

15ml (1 tbsp) tomato paste

30ml (2 tbsp) sun-dried tomato pesto

15ml (1 tbsp) chopped peppadews

5ml (1 tsp) chopped chilli, optional

500ml (2 cups) chicken stock

250ml cream

500ml (2 cups) chicken stock

500g pappardelle pasta or any shape you prefer

Method:

1. Slice the steak into strips and season with salt and pepper or any other seasoning you prefer. Preheat a splash of oil in the pan and cook on a high heat for a few minutes. Transfer to a bowl and allow to rest.
2. Deglaze the pan with white wine and cook out the alcohol. Add tomato paste, pesto, peppadews and chilli and cook for a few minutes stirring constantly.
3. Add chicken stock and cook until reduced by ⅓ before adding the cream and cook until reduced and thickened.
4. Add cream and cook down until sauce has thickened and add all the juices collected in the bowl where the steak is resting.
5. Fill a large pot with water and season generously with salt, you want your water to taste like seawater. Bring to a rolling boil and add the pasta and cook for 10 minutes or until al dente.
6. Drain the pasta and add to sauce, then add the steak. Mix until pasta is completely coated and finish with a few cracks of black pepper.

theshortmarketclub.co.za 

In the new format of judging, the EatOut Woolworths Restaurant Awards 2022 rated  restaurants according to stars: 1 star, 2 star and the highest ranking 3 star and handed out a dozen special awards to individual restaurants, chefs and food personalities in the industry. For the full list visit eatout.co.za