Divinely decadent: Four high tea spots put to the test
South Africans are lapping up the luxury of high tea as more hotels and venues are offering the English ritual. We put four to the test
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Image: Micky Hoyle
The English tradition of high tea is said to have been introduced by the seventh Duchess of Bedford in 1840 because she felt the evening meal in her household was served late, which meant by late afternoon she became hungry and order a tray of tea, a sandwich and cake be brought to her room at 4pm. She so enjoyed the ritual that she shared the habit with friends.
Forty years later it evolved into a grand affair where high society women turned it into an occasion, dressing up in long, opulent gowns, over-the-top hats and gloves for afternoon tea traditionally served in the drawing room between 4pm and 5pm.
With a recent explosion of venues offering the luxurious ritual, we put four to the test.
1. CAFE BAILEY @ THE BAILEY, BREE STREET, CAPE TOWN
I was reminded of the opulence of high tea as I stepped into the alluring emerald green entrance to The Bailey in Cape Town. It harked back to memories when 20 years ago on a media trip to London I slipped into The Dorchester hotel, as one does, where I enjoyed the ultimate in high tea. The Bailey exuded that sameEuropean luxury — except with a good helping of warm South African hospitality.
It’s chef Liam Tomlin’s new culinary destination in buzzy Bree Street where we were ushered up a grand staircase for tea with vistas over the cafe framed by an elaborate gold chandelier, a wall festooned with a collection of guilt mirrors, elegant velvet couches, marble tables and people coming and going.
Beyond the aromatic tea it’s the delights that accompanied it that made it an occasion of pure decadence
Kicking off with a glass of bubbly — choose between a Graham Beck Brut or Brut Rosé — to set the tone of frisson for the indulgence to come. Central to high tea is selecting a brew of choice — here there are eight and nothing as ordinary as a dull tea bag. Instead, think infusions of unusual blends. A foodie friend and my choice was the signature, The Bailey, a rooibos base with caramel, apple, banana and flowers steeped in boiling water in an elegant glass teapot, a timer to hand set to the perfect infusion ... the fragrance just said it all.
Beyond the aromatic tea it’s the delights that accompanied it that made it an occasion of pure decadence. A multilayered tea stand arrived at the table with a tempting array of mouthfuls. Pretty as a picture and almost too lovely to eat, we enjoyed gorgeous salmon blinis, just the right size to pick up, topped with sour cream and a sprinkling of caviar.
There were decadent yet delicate lobster rolls — beautiful chunks of succulent lobster in a homemade mayo that put the ones I've tasted to shame. Utterly delicious. This was followed by the smoothest, rich and delicious duck liver parfait with a hint of sweetness and texture from a thin layer of port jelly and mini Melba toasts. Divine.
Image: Micky Hoyle
With the smorgasbord of savouries, greed gets the better of you and it’s difficult to remember to pace yourself for the sweet indulgences to come. Head pastry chef San-Marie Pienaar outdoes herself here — the mini buttery scones came with lashings of thick cream and homemade jam.
Followed by a trio of French patisserie, think delicate layers of opera cake — coffee soaked almond sponge layered with ganache and covered in chocolate glaze, there's a classic mille-feuille of crispy melt-in-the-mouth puff pastry interspersed with a sweet filling. A favourite was the lemon tart with crispy, sweet pastry, sweet/tart freshness of a custardy lemon filling. Don't eave without savouring the mini crème brûlée, a heavenly mouthful with a scorched sugary, crunchy topping. Sublime.
Beyond the decadence, the service is warm and attentive without feeling intrusive which makes it a rare treat and perfect to celebrate anniversaries, birthdays, bridal showers or just life — it's worth it.
Rating: 9/10 — one niggle is that their teapots need burners to keep the brew warm.
BOOK YOUR HIGH TEA
Afternoon tea is served at Cafe Bailey Mondays to Saturdays from 3pm-5pm. Classic Afternoon Tea costs R400 pp, Classic Afternoon Tea with bubbly R480 pp and Cream Tea of scones with clotted cream and homemade jams R120 pp.
• Reservations can be done via Dineplan: 021 773 0440.
— Hilary Biller
Image: Supplied
2. COURTYARD HOTEL WATERFALL CITY, MIDRAND
Across the road from the Mall of Africa in Midrand, the modern and fresh Courtyard Hotel Waterfall City opened last year. One of its latest additions is its delightful high tea offering.
Take your pick from a selection of Dilmah teas. My favourite is the rose with French vanilla but with 12 teas to choose from there’s something for every taste.
They’ve also teamed up with Italian Prosecco brand Valdo for welcome drinks and glasses of bubbly that get topped up in the blink of an eye and never run dry.
From chef Keegan Maistry’s kitchen flows a selection of sweet and savoury treats. If the nibbles on the tiers placed on each table is too limited, simply help yourself to the large buffet-style table that takes centre stage in the Club Lounge — one of the brightly inviting and modern private rooms where high teas take place.
Image: Supplied
Image: Sanet Oberhozler
Some staples are always on offer but the menu changes according to season and the ethos of their no-waste kitchen. If Maistry has been cooking up a storm with lemons, this may translate as a lovely lemon buttercream cake on the day.
Otherwise, expect high tea staples such as dainty finger sandwiches, fresh scones, lip-smacking tartlets, fruit skewers and chicken and mushroom vol au vents.
The selection is vast but some highlights include mini dome cheesecakes, mini chocolate logs with chocolate ganache, macarons and tiramisu on the sweet side.
Expect scrumptious steamed bao buns with pork belly and hoisin sauce, salmon and cream cheese blinis and vegan tofu and vegetable pinwheels to add variety on the savoury side.
Image: Sanet Oberholzer
Image: Supplied
The little people at the high tea will especially enjoy the beautiful jars filled with jelly beans, marshmallows and swirled meringues.
As far as high teas go, the bottomless high tea offers great value for money because all food and drink is that, meaning you can help yourself to as much or as little as you’d like.
This is a popular option for birthdays and events such as kitchen teas so book in advance.
RATING: 9/10
BOOK YOUR HIGH TEA
High tea at the Courtyard Hotel Waterfall City is available to book as part of the hotel's events and conferencing menu of options. Select your choice of venue across the hotel, depending on numbers, and the option best suited to you.
Minimum 12 people for a group booking. The bottomless high tea costs R465 per person and includes unlimited sweet and savoury treats, tea and Prosecco. Children under 6 eat for free and aged between of 6 and 12 pay 50% of the price.
• For reservations, email cywaterfall.events@clhg.com
— Sanet Oberholzer
Image: Supplied
3. ZIOUX, THE MARC CORNER, SANDTON
High tea at the Marble group’s Zioux is a classy affair with an invitation to dress up for an afternoon of fine delights and Champagne in the heart of Sandton.
Served on the moody, elaborately decorated restaurant floor, laid-back tracks from the live DJ booth match the leisurely pace of this high tea which kicks off with a service of exciting choices from Everything Tea such as black forest, apple crumble, hot cross bun or a bright and flavoursome turquoise-coloured unicorn tea reminiscent of a potion out of Alice in Wonderland.
The food menu is no less impressive. To start, there’s a selection of sweet and savoury snacks beautifully presented on an elaborate golden tiered stand.
Image: Supplied
Image: Supplied
Mini scones are served with rhubarb jam, hibiscus butter and cream and classic sweet treats such as opera cake and pretty pecan buttercream macarons are served alongside bright red rose choux pastries, cherry lips and luxurious bites of sweetcorn mousse with passion fruit gel and a génoise sponge — an option you’ll either find strange or utterly delectable.
Decadent hints of truffle infuse bites of salmon blini and crayfish rolls and the Latin American inspiration head chef Moses Moloi draws from is reflected in a puffed up casing of masa flour filled with black beans, corn and a charred tomato salsa.
The crayfish rolls taste good but the filling to bread is a bit out of proportion and the masa flour bites are difficult to eat.
But this is just round one: a second serving of a three-tier savoury selection follows and these are delicious. Think buttermilk chicken steamed buns, kebabs with chunks of fillet, crispy prawn spring rolls and Wagyu sirloin katso.
Image: Supplied
Image: Supplied
It seems strange to conclude with the heavier savoury nibbles but in retrospect the teas pair better with the more delicate nibbles.
For a sparkling addition to your high tea, two Perrier Jouët Champagne cocktails have been specifically crafted. You can add a glass or bottle of the good stuff — at an additional cost — and there’s a fine selection of wines or cocktails from the regular menu which rarely disappoints.
You’ll need deep pockets as this high tea is on the pricey side, reflecting the venue and reputation which, I’d say, has been duly earned when it comes to Zioux. But if it’s glitz and glamour you’re going for, there’s no need to cast your gaze further afield.
Rating: 8/10
BOOK YOUR HIGH TEA
High tea at Zioux is available on Saturdays from 11am to 4pm. It costs R750 pp and includes sweet and savoury eats and tea. Champagne and cocktails are available at an additional cost. Leave the young ones at home — the restaurant has an age restriction of 25+.
• For reservations, phone 010 594 5455 or email info@zioux.com.
— Sanet Oberholzer
Image: Hillary Biller
4. LEVEL FOUR, 54 ON BATH, ROSEBANK
Tucked away in bustling Rosebank, Johannesburg is a red-brick building on a busy corner, the understated yet luxurious 54 on Bath Hotel. Built 25 years ago, the brainchild of entrepreneur Chippy Brand, today it's owned by Southern Sun and having closed during the pandemic it is back and busy attracting guests with its splendour.
A new menu addition at the hotel's Level 4 Restaurant is a sumptuous high tea buffet. The restaurant opens onto a large terrace with rarely seen vistas over the ever-growing suburb. Tables spill into the area covered by trees and shaped by a large narrow rectangular pool. Inside it’s more formal but still comfortable. On the day we visited a table of women were celebrating a bridal shower, overseas guests were enjoying the warm weather and indulging in the buffet delicacies.
Image: Supplied
Image: Hillary Biller
There are nine tea selections and the waitress steered us towards Jade of Africa, the 54 on Bath house blend, a delicate and fragrant red tea, with strawberries and sunflower. Delicious. We ventured into unknown territory, the 1837 White Tea, a signature tea with hints of green tea, offering a slight bitterness at the back of the palate — a refreshing choice on a hot afternoon.
Like a vast flower arrangement the buffet is on a large table to the side of the room, it groans with delectables: you are spoilt for choice — savouries to one side which are outstripped by a sea of sweet delicacies that reflects the colours of a rainbow. There are a selection of platters, plates, trays and cake stands of bites, each of differing heights which adds to the drama and delight.
Image: Supplied
The choice ranges from excellent scones with cream and preserves, carrot cakes and chocolate brownies, to rectangles of red velvet opera cakes, beautiful small rounds of fruit tartlets, to pretty glasses of yoghurt panna cotta with caramel topping — my favourite.
There is also a platter of brightly coloured macarons, sour cream cherry tartlets with a beautiful twirls of lightly torched meringue. Savouries included the famous cucumber sandwiches which are so refreshingly simple but good, pastrami bagels, smoked salmon brioche, leek and potato pops, olive pinwheels and beef empanadas. The spread offered a gourmet journey of tastes from around the globe. The beauty of a buffet is being allowed to choose what you fancy and knowing you can come back for more.
The staff were friendly and helpful and as it was International Coffee Day the afternoon we visited there was a coffee station offering a variety of coffees. It is a great way to while away a Saturday afternoon, get away from the maddening crowd and on a summer's day there's nothing nicer than a grand tea taken on the terrace under the trees.
Rating: 7/10
BOOK YOUR HIGH TEA
Level Four's High Tea Buffet is offered every Saturday in Level 4 Restaurant from 1.30pm to 4pm at R495 pp. Afternoon Tea takes place from Sunday to Friday 2.30pm-4.30pm at R345 pp. Royal Afternoon Tea includes a kir royale cocktail on arrival at R415 pp, Champagne Tea includes a glass of Perrier Jouët French Champagne at R535 pp and the High Tea Buffet costs R495 pp.
• For reservations email LevelFour.Restaurant@southernsun.com
— Hilary Biller
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