Evolution of Kota

The sixth annual Blue Ribbon Soweto Kota Festival took place at the Elka Cricket Grounds this month. The event demonstrated that the humble township burger is not only evolving into a fully-fledged culinary offering, but is also taking its ambassadorial role more seriously than ever.

Back in the day, the basic kota was filled with chips and French polony that has never left South Africa, and cost about R10. If you were really spoiling yourself and scoring brownie points with a date, you would spend an exorbitant R20 to get a processed burger patty with non-melting cheese that should have been classified as a type of recyclable plastic.

Fast-forward to this year’s gastronomic gathering in the South Western Townships and the kota was demanding its rightful place in South Africa’s entry-level gourmet food scene. Various stalls attracted the crowds as they offered upper-echelon sustenance.

Chef Kgomotso Nyamunda from the aptly named West Wing Chef — a mobile pop-up restaurant based in the leafy northern suburbs of Joburg — served a medium-rare kudu kota (R80) that could easily be part of a six-course meal at an exclusive game reserve. It was succulent and packed with flavours, thanks to home-made vegetable atchar and a secret sauce that bound the meal excellently. Acidity, sweetness, fruity notes, various textures and popping colours ensured this was the most private school kota available.

After one bite, I found myself developing a private school accent and pronouncing it a “quarter”.

“I wanted to do something out of the ordinary and decided to go the kudu route. Venison is high on protein and lean on fat, just to spice up the kota market. I am tired of conventional proteins like Russian sausages. I wanted to add zest to the mix, which is why I also make my own vegetable atchar and secret sauce,” said Nyamunda.

There was another stall that had oddly long queues, as revellers could not get enough of its tastes. The Siga Culinary Restaurant, at 384 Eastbank Avenue in Alexandra, offers what they term “MexiKasi” food, including kotas. Spicy mince, jalapeños, guacamole, pineapple salsa and other typical Mexican fillings were used. The Tex-Mex kota proved a hit. The pièce de résistance was an almost runny, soft, free-range egg that topped it off.

I am convinced that a lot of these festivalgoers were using the spicy flavour profiles of these kotas to cure a hangover. Speaking of the tipple, there were endless food pairings, such as a salmon kota and a fruity, Soweto-made gin. Artisanal beer brewers, whisky distillers and winemakers came out in their numbers to ensure that the kota’s status as a poor man’s meal is no longer the case.

Vegetarian and vegan options, as with most revolutions and evolutions, it is never just about one element.

A number of Soweto-based entrepreneurs used the occasion as a springboard to showcase locally made sauces such as mayonnaise and peri-peri. One-of-a-kind juices and other drinks also made an appearance, bolstering the fact that the kota is now firmly a quarter of the way to being considered as a gourmet food staple.

Info box: Naming conventions form part of the kota scene. Some of the most creative at this year’s festival included the Thabo Bester and Nandipha combo (R150); the Gold-digger (R130), and the Family Bonds (R200). For more information on the Soweto Kota Festival, follow @sowetokotafestival on Instagram.