A plum assignment to create delectable dishes

Hillary Biller learns all about the journey of this humble fruit — from tree to table

25 February 2024 - 00:00
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Plums are one of the easier deciduous stone fruits to grow. South Africa produces plums of the highest quality for the international market.
Plums are one of the easier deciduous stone fruits to grow. South Africa produces plums of the highest quality for the international market.
Image: Supplied

I received an invitation from the South African stone fruit growers asking me to join them on a trip following the journey of the humble plum — from tree to the table. And the cherry on the top? The promise of a delectable three-course lunch featuring the fruit specially prepared by one of my favourite chefs, Reuben Riffel, and his team at Reuben’s Restaurant & Bar in the culinary capital of South Africa, Franschhoek. Of course I said yes — and, yes, I love plums.

What did I learn about plums on the trip, apart from how delicious they are?

  • South Africa is one of the leading producers of stone fruit of the highest quality.
  • Plums are one of the easier deciduous stone fruits to grow.
  • — Different varieties of plums and are available in a range of colours, including stunning deep purple (my fave), red and orange-yellow. Purple plums offer a pleasant sweet/tart taste, and are great when used in sweet and savoury dishes; red ones are sweeter, with a more gentle tang; and yellow plums are the sweetest of all, with a hint of tartness to them.
  • — The South African market consumes only 20% of the country’s total plum harvest. My hope is to encourage readers to enjoy more plums, because they are in season now and are plentiful. They are also one of the more affordable fruits — even cheaper than bananas — and are delicious too.
  • — The rest of the local harvest heads to international markets, such as Europe, the Middle East and US — and who can blame our farmers for seeking out those markets considering the strength of those currencies compared with the rand?
  • — The best way to ripen plums is to put them into a brown paper bag, where they will become more succulent, flavoursome and sweeter.

Here are the three recipes from the delicious lunch we enjoyed at Reuben’s. Recipes are courtesy of Reuben Riffel for Juicy Delicious.

GRIDDLED BEANS & PLUM CRUNCHY SEED SALAD
GRIDDLED BEANS & PLUM CRUNCHY SEED SALAD
Image: Supplied

GRIDDLED BEANS & PLUM CRUNCHY SEED SALAD

Serves 4

HB Verdict: Reuben’s restaurant in Franschhoek served the perfect dish for a steaming-hot day. There was a great balance of textures — crunchy beans, cool fruit, and the occasional dab of yummy soft cheese in-between the crunchiness.

400g fine beans

Olive oil

Sea salt

15ml (1 tbsp) whole coriander seeds

15ml (1tbsp) caraway seeds

2 seasonal plums (or use nectarines)

120g cream cheese, creamed feta or any soft cheese

Dressing:

30ml (2 tbsp) olive oil 

15ml (1 tbsp) sherry vinegar

Juice of 1/2 lemon

15ml (1 tbsp) runny honey

Pinch of salt

1. Pinch away the stalky bits of beans, but keep their tails.

2. Toss in a bowl with a glug of olive oil and pinch of sea salt. Heat a griddle pan to high and cook the beans for 5 minutes. Cool.

2. Heat 15ml (1 tbsp) oil in small frying pan, add the seeds, and cook for 2-3 minutes until golden and slightly fragrant. Drain on kitchen towel-lined plate.

3. De-pip chosen fruit and slice into roughly 1/4 — 1/2 slices. Combine dressing in a bowl and add the beans, nectarines and seeds. Toss, serve and enjoy.

SWEET SOY CHICKEN FRUITY SKEWERS
SWEET SOY CHICKEN FRUITY SKEWERS
Image: Supplied

SWEET SOY CHICKEN FRUITY SKEWERS

Serves 4

HB Verdict: A winning tasty main course that is simple to make at home. The skewers can be cooked on the braai over a fairly low heat (low coals). Turn them frequently so they don't burn. Ensure the plums or peaches selected are not too soft.

6 — 8 wooden kebab sticks, soaked in water

45ml (3 tbsp) sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)

5ml (1 tsp) garlic and ginger paste

5ml (1 tsp) cumin

5ml (1 tsp) chilli powder

5ml (1 tsp) sesame oil

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1kg deboned chicken thighs, cut into pieces

6 — 8 wooden kebab sticks, soaked in water

4 plums or 3 peaches, cut into pieces

1 large red onion, cut into chunks

1. Combine the sweet soy sauce, garlic and ginger paste, cumin, chilli powder, sesame and lemon juice in a bowl. Add the chicken thigh pieces and marinate covered in the fridge overnight.

2. Just before threading the chicken onto the skewers, soak the kebab sticks in water for at least 10 minutes.

3. Thread chicken pieces, plums or peaches and onion chunks onto the skewers, saving the marinade, and grill on preheated grill for about 12 minutes, flipping halfway and brushing frequently with the marinade.

PLUM GALETTES
PLUM GALETTES
Image: supplied

PLUM GALETTES

Makes 6

HB Verdict: Ending a meal on a high note leaves a lasting sweet memory. Think delicious melt-in-the mouth pastry and the softness of a baked plum steeped in vanilla with a hint of lemon, topped with crystallised raw sugar. Oh, my goodness — just so delicious and a real winner. If you wanted to simplify the recipe, you can use shop-bought puff pastry, but be sure to look out for the one made with real butter.

Makes 6

Pastry:

250g wholemeal spelt flour 

90g white spelt flour

Pinch of salt

225g cold butter, cut into 2cm cubes

120g crème fraîche

Topping:

6 — 8 plums, (500g), halved and pitted 

30ml (2 tbsp) caster sugar

1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped

Finely grated rind of 1/2 lemon

1 egg, lightly beaten

pinch of salt

125ml (1/2 cup) raw sugar

Thickened cream to serve

Reubin Riffel in his restaurant.
Reubin Riffel in his restaurant.
Image: Supplied

1. For the pastry, sieve the flours and salt into a bowl, toss butter into flour to coat, and tip onto a cold counter. Roll butter into flour with rolling pin until thin streaks form.

2. Scrape edges of mixture into the centre with pastry scraper, and then roll until thinner ribbons of butter form in the mixture. Add crème fraîche, cutting into the mixture with the pastry scraper until a dough just forms (small lumps of butter will remain). Press together firmly, wrap in plastic wrap, press into a disc, and then place in freezer until firm (about 30 minutes).

3. Divide dough into 6 balls and roll each between 2 sheets of baking paper to 17cm rounds, then place, still in paper, in the freezer for 20 minutes. Cut 3 plums into halves and 4 into 4 wedges each. Combine caster sugar, vanilla seeds and lemon rind in a bowl.

Add plum wedges and toss gently to coat.

4. Remove pastry from freezer, place a plum half in the centre and surround with 3 wedges of plum, thin sides facing outwards, leaving a 2cm border. Fold softening pastry over the edges of the plums making 6 folds each. Refrigerate until firm (about 30 minutes).

5. Preheat oven to 180°C. Whisk together egg and a pinch of salt. Brush pastry with egg wash and scatter with the sugar. Bake galettes until they start to turn golden brown (about 20 minutes), then reduce oven temperature to 170°C and bake until golden brown and plums are tender (about another 5-10 minutes). Serve with cream.

Follow @juicydelicioussa on Instagram or visit www.juicydelicious.co.za.

Reuben's Restaurant in Franschhoek.
Reuben's Restaurant in Franschhoek.
Image: Supplied

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