This trio of exciting new eateries in Jozi will tickle the taste buds

Dale Roberts and his team have taken this popular brand, a long-time favourite eating haunt in Cape Town, and brought it to Joeys, where it may not have the elevation of the original in The Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock with beautiful vistas over Table Mountain, but this version sits snugly in one corner of the Oxford Parks development on the border of bustling Rosebank, next to the towering Raddison Red hotel.

The new eatery has taken the place of Chef Luke’s first initiative in this space, his reinvention of his famous and original eatery, Test Kitchen. It was the first location outside Cape Town, aptly named Test Kitchen Carbon, which opened in early 2022.

Though excited to have the LDR brand in the city, it didn't quite hit the mark and Dale Roberts, ever the pragmatist, isn't fazed.

“What I didn't realise is the Test Kitchen brand is a destination brand for special occasions featuring a set menu with more subtle European flavours,” he said.

The Pot Luck Club is working, says Chef Luke. It's pulling the crowds with the menu which is a combination of Mexican, Asian and Eastern flavours. The small and exciting plates offer a more relaxed style of eating, which we in Jozi love.

There are 14 pizzas to choose from, my favourite being the Siciliana (R190) with anchovy, olives, red onion and capers. My husband Peter's was the Vegetariana (R220) with brinjal, zucchini, artichoke, sun dried tomato pesto, basil, olives and feta. These can be enjoyed at the hotel's pool side, the covered bar area or in comfort in the small restaurant. There's a lekker laid-back vibe. The waiters are friendly and on the ball and on the night we were there we enjoyed live music — it was the perfect spot for a pizza and beer after work.

For those seeking the real deal, the 400g Degrees pizza of parma ham, truffles, burrata aged Parmesan, topped with rocket is a connoisseur's delight (R900) which foodie Anna Trapido rated highly. Now that's praise indeed. — Hilary Biller

Clico Boutique Hotel is at 27 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank. Open from noon to 9pm Monday to Sunday. Bookings can be made via the website.

FUGAZZI 

As we’re being pulled further into winter’s icy grip, few remedies are as gratifying as steaming bowls of comfort food bulging with bold flavours and easy-to-slurp goodness. And I’ve found just the spot.

Fugazzi is the latest offering from Colada Club, which brought Proud Mary and Mamasamba to the Rosebank dining scene. But in no sense is three a crowd. As an American-style Italian diner, Fugazzi offers something completely different: more casual than elegant sister Proud Mary down the lane and more sit down and kickback than bustling sibling Mamasamba across the way.

Chef Marc Robert, who designed the menus for the three establishments, says Fugazzi is a big dive into the homey and hearty side of food: a focus on classics with a bit of an Italian twist and a touch of Americana.

“We’re the house of red sauce and cheese. That kind of Brooklyn pizzeria-San Francisco vibe. So big flavours, big portions, lots of cheese, Parmesan. That’s the inspiration for the menu.”

The space embodies that of a retro diner — with none of the grease and all of the class. Booths invite families and smaller tables welcome friends with nostalgic music along the lines of Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Train in their Drops of Jupiter phase.

Diving into the menu on a recent visit, we started with a selection of antipasti: pan-fried squid, spinach and ricotta dumplings, and crispy risotto balls with wild mushroom and mozzarella served with roasted garlic aioli and Parmesan (currently Robert’s favourite dish). Naturally, we had to sample the meatballs pomodoro. These veal and pork balls are baked in red sauce and served with garlic brushed ciabatta toast and basil. They no doubt hit the spot when you’re hungry and craving something good.

Under the smaller “Fatto in Casa” section on the menu, you’ll find the in-house pastas. Robert loves to cook with veggies so I went for the mushroom tortellini (R190). Filled with ricotta and field mushrooms, it’s served with a mushroom and truffle lemon butter, pine nuts and pecorino. Delicately made, it’s simple and mouth-wateringly rich.

Though I loved my choice, this is the kind of restaurant that inspires dish envy no matter what you order. My husband’s choice of rigatoni quattrogazzi was equally impressive and oozing with richness, if entirely too big to eat. I had to gobble down a big bite of the penne, chorizo, salami, salsiccia, pancetta, chilli cream, friarielli and pine nuts.

To finish, there was the crispiest cannoli filled on one side with creamy ricotta and on the other with the most decadent and light chocolate mousse, which bowled me over. “You have to try it” was the message to my dessert-loving sister. 

Breakfast is an equally indulgent affair with an assortment of fun and sweet menu options. There is also a mean selection of negronis and martinis — the bar is worth a visit on its own. The cocktails are strong, stiff and proper. The perfect pairing with the hearty food.

The portions are big, the food satisfying and the vibe laid-back and welcoming.

As for which of the three are Robert’s favourite child, it’s not our secret to spill. But with winter knocking at the front door, my feeling is that Fugazzi will be feature in the chilly months ahead. - Sanet Oberholzer 

Fugazzi is at The Zone in Rosebank. Open from 7am-11pm Monday to Sunday. Bookings can be make via Dineplan or by emailing ciao@fugazzi.co.za, calling 010-730-0690 or sending a WhatApp to 069-339-0028.