Thebe X Orlando Pirates: fashion experts weigh in on soccer kit drama

He has won the hearts of Vogue editor Anna Wintour and French President Emmanuel Macron. But when it comes to the fans of Orland Pirates, renowned South African designer Thebe Magugu has ruffled feathers.

Following images released on the football club's official social media, a number of fans were not impressed by his designs. This follows last month's Pride kit which featured the LGBTQIA+ rainbow colours that were slated by a number of homophobic fans.

This is not Magugu's first rodeo with Adidas who are behind the soccer team's kit. Magugu designed his first collaboration with the athleisure brand in August that celebrated the women in his life. The luxury designer's second collaboration with Adidas featured birds of paradise prints which coincided with Magugu's storytelling, of South Africa's heritage.

Maguu was not able to comment on the backlash but shared that there would be more releases from the partnership with Orland Pirates.

Questions on whether luxury and high-end designers should design sports kits has become a hot topic, but experts were quick to defend Magugu.

Luxury accessories designer and co-creator of the Fashion Spaces podcast, Samkelisiwe Mhlongo, says it's the perfect collaboration for Thebe, who is constantly redefining African luxury.

“It doesn't happen every day because you don't see fashion and soccer coming together. For Thebe, as a designer, this is his chance to tap into a different market,” she says. “It's a great way to appreciate the brand.”

However, it's not uncommon for collaborations to not align with expectations set by fans. Whether it's pop star Lady Gaga as creative director for Polaroid or as award-winning fashion writer and YouTuber Khensani Mohlatlole notes, the venture between Kate Moss as Diet Coke's creative director.

In Magugu's case, Mohlatlole notes that there is little knowledge of the creative freedom Magugu and his team were given. But there are much more layers to the collaboration.

“I was not in that room but there are a lot of limitations in terms of how a rugby or football kit is going to look. When you bring in a fashion designer, you're setting up that audience for a lot of disappointment because they're going to expect something really advanced in terms of sportswear performance and design. There's a lot of limitations in terms of making it interesting” she says.

Fashion stylist and writer Ulindelwe Ratsibe believes Orlando Pirates is on the right side of history with this decision.

“They also had their recent Pride capsule... these people are doing the right thing,” he says, aldding that this is not only lucrative for Magugu but for Pirates as well. 

“It's about community, it's about belonging and soccer teams are great examples of that. It's a great marketing exercise to reach into a new segment,” Ratsibe says, adding that the opportunity is likely to interest people outside soccer.

“It elevates you as a soccer brand. I'm not a fan but now I'm thinking of Orlando Pirates.” 

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